Chip & spray ( handlay)

Setts and cobbles, tarmac, asphalt, resin systems, concrete whether it's plain, patterned or stencilled, gravels, etc.
loudog
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:59 pm
Location: mells

Post: # 56310Post loudog

Hi to all, ive been asked to chip and spray a drive, The drive is just two tracks of concrete about 12mts long each. Is it as easy as to put some tack coat down (60%) i am guessing and lay 10mm chips on top, any advise would be great.
Cheers Chaps

msh paving
Site Admin
Posts: 1854
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:03 pm
Location: kings lynn norfolk
Contact:

Post: # 56312Post msh paving

im not a mackytar expert but tack coat won't stick them ,you need hot tar for them to stick into MSH :)
paving, mini-crusher, mini-digger hire and groundwork
http://mshpaving.co.uk

bobbi o
Posts: 481
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:55 pm
Location: glasgow

Post: # 56314Post bobbi o

Colas Leochip and 10mm clean. not for this time of the year-wait till spring.

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56319Post Tony McC

Usually a hot bitumen emulsion used at this time of year. Definitely NOT tack-coat.

I'd pass on this one to a full-time tar'n'chip specialist. It's a messy, messy job that needs specialist kit and plenty of experience.

It's more than a decade since I last looked at a tar'n'chip job, but back then it had to be 150m² or more to be economic, otherwise it was cheaper to do a 20mm overlay.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

loudog
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:59 pm
Location: mells

Post: # 56341Post loudog

Thanks for your feedback. Could i use a hot bitchy pot like roofers use, i have plenty of bitumen blocks so couldn't i just heat them up, pour on with can and put chippings on the top, the tracks are about 12 metres long by half metre wide, i coud just do a little at a time so the bitumen doesn't go off, what do you think.
regards

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56347Post Tony McC

Nope - wrong sort of bitumen.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

loudog
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:59 pm
Location: mells

Post: # 56385Post loudog

The reason the client wants chip and spray is because it is on a steep slope, and he has it in his head that would be best as his road is done out in it, any other idears i can tell him.

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56403Post Tony McC

Before Simeon jumps in ...resin based surfacing would seem to be the answer
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

Dave_L
Site Admin
Posts: 4732
Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 8:47 pm
Location: Somerset
Contact:

Post: # 56404Post Dave_L

Tony McC wrote:Before Simeon jumps in ...resin based surfacing would seem to be the answer
But at a considerable price premium compared to surface dressing!
RW Gale Ltd - Civils & Surfacing Contractors based in Somerset

See what we get up to Our Facebook page

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56405Post Tony McC

Resin would be significantly more expensive on a larger job, but anything under, say, 50m², there's not much in it. Very, very roughly, 50m² of resin bond would cost around 2 grand. I doubt I'd be able to get a surface dressing gang in for much less than 1500 quid.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

loudog
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:59 pm
Location: mells

Post: # 56485Post loudog

Prob will have to go back to the drawing board as this guy doesnt want to spend much, think he has a budget of £500, he doesn't care what it looks like, he just wants a bit of traction on those steep tracks of his

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56489Post Tony McC

Saw cuts and chasing at a alight downhill angle?
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

loudog
Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:59 pm
Location: mells

Post: # 56519Post loudog

Thanks but can you explain a little more on that Tony

GB_Groundworks
Site Admin
Posts: 4420
Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2008 3:55 pm
Location: high peak
Contact:

Post: # 56525Post GB_Groundworks

Add texture to existing concrete by scouring it with a cut off saw and diamond blade.

Use regular intervals and I'd be rigging some kind of jig up to get a consistent depth of cut and use water suppression
Giles

Groundworks and Equestrian specialists, prestige new builds and sports pitches. High Peak, Cheshire, South Yorkshire area.

http://www.gbgroundworks.com

Tony McC
Site Admin
Posts: 8346
Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
Contact:

Post: # 56529Post Tony McC

Sorry - I should have made it clearer.

Make parallel saw cuts approx 25mm apart, and just 6-10mm deep. Allow 100mm or so between each pair of cuts. Direct the cuts so there is a downhill fall.

Then, chisel out (known as 'chasing') the concrete between the parallel cuts. This gives a roughly textured surface that should offer a bit more traction. The reason for ensuring there is a fall should be apparent - you don't want water accumulating in the chased cuts where it will turn to ice.

It's not particularly pretty, but for 500 quid, you're not going to get much else.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert

Post Reply