Chip & spray ( handlay)
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im not a mackytar expert but tack coat won't stick them ,you need hot tar for them to stick into MSH
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Usually a hot bitumen emulsion used at this time of year. Definitely NOT tack-coat.
I'd pass on this one to a full-time tar'n'chip specialist. It's a messy, messy job that needs specialist kit and plenty of experience.
It's more than a decade since I last looked at a tar'n'chip job, but back then it had to be 150m² or more to be economic, otherwise it was cheaper to do a 20mm overlay.
I'd pass on this one to a full-time tar'n'chip specialist. It's a messy, messy job that needs specialist kit and plenty of experience.
It's more than a decade since I last looked at a tar'n'chip job, but back then it had to be 150m² or more to be economic, otherwise it was cheaper to do a 20mm overlay.
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Thanks for your feedback. Could i use a hot bitchy pot like roofers use, i have plenty of bitumen blocks so couldn't i just heat them up, pour on with can and put chippings on the top, the tracks are about 12 metres long by half metre wide, i coud just do a little at a time so the bitumen doesn't go off, what do you think.
regards
regards
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Before Simeon jumps in ...resin based surfacing would seem to be the answer
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But at a considerable price premium compared to surface dressing!Tony McC wrote:Before Simeon jumps in ...resin based surfacing would seem to be the answer
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Add texture to existing concrete by scouring it with a cut off saw and diamond blade.
Use regular intervals and I'd be rigging some kind of jig up to get a consistent depth of cut and use water suppression
Use regular intervals and I'd be rigging some kind of jig up to get a consistent depth of cut and use water suppression
Giles
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Sorry - I should have made it clearer.
Make parallel saw cuts approx 25mm apart, and just 6-10mm deep. Allow 100mm or so between each pair of cuts. Direct the cuts so there is a downhill fall.
Then, chisel out (known as 'chasing') the concrete between the parallel cuts. This gives a roughly textured surface that should offer a bit more traction. The reason for ensuring there is a fall should be apparent - you don't want water accumulating in the chased cuts where it will turn to ice.
It's not particularly pretty, but for 500 quid, you're not going to get much else.
Make parallel saw cuts approx 25mm apart, and just 6-10mm deep. Allow 100mm or so between each pair of cuts. Direct the cuts so there is a downhill fall.
Then, chisel out (known as 'chasing') the concrete between the parallel cuts. This gives a roughly textured surface that should offer a bit more traction. The reason for ensuring there is a fall should be apparent - you don't want water accumulating in the chased cuts where it will turn to ice.
It's not particularly pretty, but for 500 quid, you're not going to get much else.
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