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Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 2:48 pm
by fredmila
I know there are pages, on this site, dealing with this problem but I want to ask if anybody has had any good ideas or whether they like mine.
I have a very old concrete drive. It is cracked, uneven and patchy. It is not even good enough for the resin gravel types. But it is very firm and I wish to keep it as a base for a new gravel drive. My idea is to break it with a jack hammer but leave it in place. This way (I hope) it will create edges for the gravel to grab hold of and it will make gaps for the water to drain. I can then lay angular gravel or even self-binding gravel -although the latter sounds expensive-

Ideas and opinions appreciated

Existing surface:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9224/drivesurface.jpg

My idea for the work:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1913/driveprofile.jpg

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:10 pm
by lutonlagerlout
there are loads of reasons why this wont work fred
the gravel will migrate over the solid concrete bits

you would be better off breaking out all the old stuff into a pile,digging out any weeds etc and treating with weedkiller,then lay terram or multitrack over the subgrade.

once you are at this stage hire a crusher for a day and crush your hardcore ,spreading it as you go, then wack the crushed
then spread your aggregate and wack that too

i know this seems much more drawn out,but it will be a better job

LLL :)




Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1251727843

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:53 pm
by Tony McC
Even breaking up the old concrete, putting gravel of *any* description over a hard base is a surefire shortcut to A&E.

LLL's advice is spot on: break it up, hoick it out, chuck it in a crusher, spew it out and use it as sub-base.

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:12 pm
by msh paving
I could hire you a micro crusher,PM if interested MSH :)

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:45 pm
by fredmila
msh paving wrote:I could hire you a micro crusher,PM if interested MSH :)
How much and where are you?

Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:13 pm
by msh paving
im in kings lynn ,bout 45 mins from sleaford,£150+vat day £15 delivery MSH :)

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:13 pm
by fredmila
I have not started the job but this time I am really starting. Something occured to me on double-checking the surface. We all assumed that the gravel level would be immediately above the concrete level (or close). But I have found that there are various areas where the concrete level is up to 100mm below the gravel top. If I remove the concrete, which can be up to 100-150mm thick I may end up with up to 200-250mm away from the top surface. Why remove the concrete in the deep areas?

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:33 pm
by msh paving
you won't drive a car on deep gravel,you get stuck MSH :)