Edging to use for a gravel path - Are standard 50mm pavers ok to use?

[dominoman]

This is related to a question I posted before - but it's a different topic so I have started a new thread. Hope thats OK.

I have decided to save money by using gravel on my garden path rather than pave the whole thing. However I want to edge it nicely so it looks right.

I don't want to use raised edges because the path will pass the lawn in places and I'd like to mow over the edging. The gravel will need to be a bit lower so it doesn't spill.

I've read everything on this site, including the excellent page on gravel http://www.pavingexpert.com/gravel01.htm

My question is whether standard 50mm pavers would be suitable as a path edge / mowing strip. Or should I use stone sets which are a bit thicker. The path curves, in case that changes anything.

[lutonlagerlout]

you can use standard pavers bedded onto 150mm of leanmix and haunched to within an inch of the top
however it may look a bit snide
clay pavers are nicer for this as they dont weather so much
blockleys do a nice brindle
cheers LLL

[dominoman]

Many thanks LutonLager. That's good to know that a standard thickness paver will be OK.

When you say it may look a bit snide what do you mean?

The soil / grass will be level with the top of the pavers so hopefully the leanmix won't be visible.

Are these kind of pavers suitable? Woburn Rumbled paving
I like the grey rumbled ones, and I'd use the smallest size so that it works well on the curves.

One final question...
If using these kind of pavers only for edging, should I lay them right up against each other like you would in block paving, or should I seperate them a little and point, like you would for sets?

[Tony McC]

You can use any form of block that you like: tumbled, textured, shaped, red, grey, yellow....whatever takes your fancy.

Use minimal haunching on the "inside" edge so that you get reasonable gravel cover, but make sure the outside edge is firm and sound.

Some self-appointed know-all on the pavingexpert You Tube channel was claiming that kerbs and edgings no longer need a haunching as, if bedded down with a bond bridge, that would be enough to hold them in place.

I wouldn't be so sure for any kerbs or edgings adjacent to a vehicular area, and there's no way he'd get away with this notion on a commercial scheme, but it *could* just work for a mowing strip or, as in this case, the edge for a gravel path, where there's no real loading or lateral pressure, and little risk of displacement.

Just a though!

[dominoman]

Many thanks Tony. I want to do a decent job that will last, so I'll haunch them properly on the outside edge, and less on the inside.

If I'm using standard block pavers (the kind with the little nib to separate them 1-2 mm apart) should I lay them right up against each other like you would for normal block paving, or should I separate them a little and point in between, like you would for sets?

My thinking was that as the path is curved it would be hard to point between the "open" outside joints if I lay them close, but if I just leave that open part without any pointing it will attract weeds.

[Nigel Walker]

The problem you have with using 50mm thick blocks as a mowing strip is that the lawn on one of the haunched sides tends to not grow very well. It turns brown and yellow as there is only 25mm of soil/turf on top of the concrete.

We have used Marshalls Drivesett Kerbs as mowing strips on quite a few jobs. We lay them so they are 120mm wide, 240mm long and 80mm deep. Using them at 80mm depth allows a good haunch of 30-40mm, which then leaves 40-50mm for your lawn.
We lay them with 10mm joints and use a Resin Jointing Compound to joint them with. This helps prevent weeds growing through the joint, which is what would happen if you just butt them up

We always use a SBR bond bridge on our mowing strips, along with concrete haunching on both sides.

In fact, I think we use SBR for pretty much everything !!
Its quality stuff. We always carry a 25 litre drum around with us along with a couple of bags of cement.

[dominoman]

Thanks Nigel for the detailed info! That's great. I've looked at those Driveset Kerbs now and I think they would be perfect. I'll use a 10mm joint and a resin jointing compound (along with a bond bridge).

I guess I should use the same ones for the path edging.

This is my first job so I will be learning as I go, but I'll take my time to try and do it really well.

How do you apply the resin jointing compound to the kerbs. Is it the same as doing normal pointing, using a pointing trowel?

[Nigel Walker]

You are best using a brush in type like Marshalls Weatherpoint 365.
Thoroughly wet the kerbs and don't let them dry out whilst jointing. I find the best way to apply the jointing to an edging strip is by hand with a pair of gloves on.
Tip some of the resin onto the wet kerbs and move around with your hands, pushing the resin into the joints.
You will have to hold your hand against the open joints on the side of the kerbs, so the resin does not fall out. Make sure you cover all the kerbs with the resin jointing, not just adjacent to the joints.
Use a pointing iron to push the resin further into the joint and then brush off excess.
We tend to use a 2 part resin like Nexus Pro Joint V75-WT, as its much longer lasting, but for the novice, I would just use the Weatherpoint 365
Good luck

[dominoman]

Thanks so much Nigel! I'll be following that to the letter. Weatherpoint 365 sounds perfect for me.

For a grey type of edging paver would you normally go for the matching stone grey Weatherpoint 365, or do you think it looks better with a buff one so there is a contrast in colour between the pavers and the pointing? I realise it's down to individual choice, but just wondering what generally looks neater in your experience?

[Nigel Walker]

Stone Grey jointing with a grey paver - yes
If you want a contrast, use Black. Don't use Buff with grey pavers though !

Good luck

[dominoman]

Ok great! Many thanks.

One final question. How many days will it take me to lay edging courses either side of an 8m long path, point them, lay sub base and compact, then spread gravel?

Or rather how long would it take you, and I'll double that given my lack of experience?

[Tony McC]

That's not even a day's work for an experienced contractor!

Allow yourself a day to do the edgings, then another day for the sub-base and gravel.

[Nigel Walker]

It would take me and labourer around 3-4 hours max to do that.
For you, I would allow a good half a day to install edgings and point, then another good half day to lay sub base, compact and lay gravel.

[seanandruby]

The good thing about diy is that you can take your time. Take a step back now and again to see if it looks good to the eye ???

[dominoman]

Wow! Ok that's much less than I thought. I'd booked a week off work to get it done.

In that case, I'll also have time to do the lawn edging in the same material. It should look good.

For digging of the trench for the edgings, would you normally do that by hand? There's a guy with a small mini digger near me that charges 250 a day inc the operator. But I'm not sure if it is worth that or I should just dig it all by hand.