I am about to start a driveway, firstly I have never done one before but I have read the website and would like to say I am impressed by the detail that is given. I have done other small garden projects i.e paths/patio's but never on this scale. I hope to get some useful help throughout this project from here and I will try to get some pic's.
I would like some advice/information on setting the sub base out, I will be using edgings/soldiers, do you lay these directly on the sub base or do you dig some of the sub base out at the edges then concrete and haunch ? This will make a difference to the outer perimeter area I presume.
Are there any tips on best patterns and colours like diamonds/circles etc where and where not to use, direction for driving a car on etc ?
My total area is 50 m^, how much sub base will I need for 100mm, 9 tonne ?
Hope I am not too much of a nuisance in the coming few weeks.
New Project
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84-1093879891
A pie-eyter, eh? My missus is a Leyther and she says she didn't know they'd got the internet, or even electrickery, in Wiggin! ;)
When it comes to laying your soldier course edgings, it's up to you how you do it. I prefer to lay the sub-base, then scratch out a 'channel' for the concrete bedding, but others prefer to lay directly over the sub-grade. This is shown diagrammatically on the Laying Flexible Block Paving page, in the 'Kerbs' section.
Colours and design details come down to personal taste. The most popular colour scheme in and around Wiggin is the charcoal edging with a brindle body. Herringbone is the best pattern for a driveway, as it gives a full interlock, and a 45 herringbone looks more professional that a 90 herringbone, even though it is no stronger.
Placing circles or diamonds is best done after laying the main body of paving - see the Detailing page.
For your sub-base, 9-10 tonnes should be about right, just depending on how accurate you are with depth of dig and the final profile of the driveway. You'd be better off getting a 10T load delivered in bulk, rather than buying it in agg bags. Keyline at Hindley, Builder Centre at Coppull or Jewson at Pemberton should be able to arrange what is known as a 'direct delivery'.
Any surplus can be added to concrete haunching for kerbs/edgings or even binned, but it usually works out much cheaper to buy this way.
I'm looking forward to hearing/seeing your progress, or lack thereof! :)
When it comes to laying your soldier course edgings, it's up to you how you do it. I prefer to lay the sub-base, then scratch out a 'channel' for the concrete bedding, but others prefer to lay directly over the sub-grade. This is shown diagrammatically on the Laying Flexible Block Paving page, in the 'Kerbs' section.
Colours and design details come down to personal taste. The most popular colour scheme in and around Wiggin is the charcoal edging with a brindle body. Herringbone is the best pattern for a driveway, as it gives a full interlock, and a 45 herringbone looks more professional that a 90 herringbone, even though it is no stronger.
Placing circles or diamonds is best done after laying the main body of paving - see the Detailing page.
For your sub-base, 9-10 tonnes should be about right, just depending on how accurate you are with depth of dig and the final profile of the driveway. You'd be better off getting a 10T load delivered in bulk, rather than buying it in agg bags. Keyline at Hindley, Builder Centre at Coppull or Jewson at Pemberton should be able to arrange what is known as a 'direct delivery'.
Any surplus can be added to concrete haunching for kerbs/edgings or even binned, but it usually works out much cheaper to buy this way.
I'm looking forward to hearing/seeing your progress, or lack thereof! :)
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87-1093879912
Thanks for the reply, well it all starts this weekend! The skip arrives friday and I have my pick and shovel ready, hope to prepare the ground ready for the sub base material this weekend. I work regular days so it may take some time depending on the weather.
I have a small round drain inspection hole in the middle of the drive, should I pave round it so it shows or use a cover ?
Do these small drains move up or down to get the right level ?
I have a small round drain inspection hole in the middle of the drive, should I pave round it so it shows or use a cover ?
Do these small drains move up or down to get the right level ?
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84-1093879891
How small is 'small'? If it's 450mm or bigger in any diomension, I'd use a recess tray cover, but if it's just a rodding eye or similar, it's probaby easiest to adjust the level to suit (all drainage fittings can have their finish level adjusted) and then pave around it.
Can you give a fuller description?
Can you give a fuller description?
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87-1093879912
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84-1093879891
To include a picture, you need to have it uploaded to the web, usually in your own webspace, and then include the path to the picture inside a pair of tags. It's all explained in the HELP section under Ikoncode Tags at the bottom of the screen.
If you can't upload a picture to your own webspace or image storage webspace, send it to me and I'll upload it for you.
For block layers in Wiggin, this company emailed me earlier this week...
DKG Paving - 01942 706690
....I don't know them, but they say they've been in business for 8 years.
The only firm I do know in the area from when I was contracting is GC Construction - 01942 492288. They've been doing the block paving for quite a few years and generally do a very good job.
If you can't upload a picture to your own webspace or image storage webspace, send it to me and I'll upload it for you.
For block layers in Wiggin, this company emailed me earlier this week...
DKG Paving - 01942 706690
....I don't know them, but they say they've been in business for 8 years.
The only firm I do know in the area from when I was contracting is GC Construction - 01942 492288. They've been doing the block paving for quite a few years and generally do a very good job.
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87-1093879912
Well I am certainly aching this morning ! all the preparation has been done ready for the sub base material.
Sorry for the confusion but I meant a supplier of blocks not someone who can do it ?
I have an extension to the rear of the house which has a ring beam, this means that the concrete base comes out about 6" into the pathway were I will be paving, this means it will be higher than the drive. I will have to change levels from the pathway to the drive, but I dont want a dramatic step. The difference in height is about 2" would it look right to slope it gently from the drive to the path over say 3 ft length ?
Still not sure on how to get the pictures in the replies.
Sorry for the confusion but I meant a supplier of blocks not someone who can do it ?
I have an extension to the rear of the house which has a ring beam, this means that the concrete base comes out about 6" into the pathway were I will be paving, this means it will be higher than the drive. I will have to change levels from the pathway to the drive, but I dont want a dramatic step. The difference in height is about 2" would it look right to slope it gently from the drive to the path over say 3 ft length ?
Still not sure on how to get the pictures in the replies.
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84-1093879891
Here's one of your pictures, showing the existing driveway.....
Block suppliers in Wigan - just about anywhere. Jewsons, Keyline, Travis Perkins, Builder Centre ... they all charge more or less the same price to diy'ers, but it;s worth 'phoning around to see who's the cheapest.
As for the ring beam problem, rising 50mm over a metre (2" in 3 feet ) is not a problem for block paving - you'll hardly notice. Have you considered slicing a few of the blocks into 'slips' so that you can maintain the correct level?
Block suppliers in Wigan - just about anywhere. Jewsons, Keyline, Travis Perkins, Builder Centre ... they all charge more or less the same price to diy'ers, but it;s worth 'phoning around to see who's the cheapest.
As for the ring beam problem, rising 50mm over a metre (2" in 3 feet ) is not a problem for block paving - you'll hardly notice. Have you considered slicing a few of the blocks into 'slips' so that you can maintain the correct level?
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It's a glorified foundation, Mike - imagine a concrete-filled trench beneath the outer wall of a building and that's your basic ring beam. It usually contains hell of a lot of reinforcing steel and can be quite close to the surface, although they normally have at least 300mm of cover, except where it is used as an integral base. In some cases, a ring-beam connects together a series of vertical piles (No! Not those piles!! ) that are driven into the earth to find a firm foundation.
Aren't you glad you asked? :)
Aren't you glad you asked? :)
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The pics on the DIY page aren't Marshalls Driveline, they're clay pavers and the colours are much more intense than with concrete blocks.
If it's the Driveline you're going with, then opt for the Brindle brick for the body of your driveway, with the charcoal for the edge coldier courses. That is the most popular colour scheme in N.Western England. With the Brindle being a multi-colour block, it doesn't show up any minor stains or marks quite as badly as a mono-colour, such as red, and so it's a much better choice for driveways.
Have you got all the sub-base finished now?
If it's the Driveline you're going with, then opt for the Brindle brick for the body of your driveway, with the charcoal for the edge coldier courses. That is the most popular colour scheme in N.Western England. With the Brindle being a multi-colour block, it doesn't show up any minor stains or marks quite as badly as a mono-colour, such as red, and so it's a much better choice for driveways.
Have you got all the sub-base finished now?
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87-1093879912
Laying the sub-base and edges/soldiers this weekend, can I ask a few question before I start !
I am using 50mm blocks, how much bedding layer should I have after screeding ? this will determine the FPL I presume.
The process I presume should be:
Lay sub-base (50mm - bedding layer) from FPL
Concrete and haunch edging & soldiers (do you use mortar or sand on edging joints ? KS edges)
Lay and compact bedding layer approx 10mm higher than final screed level
Screed 41mm-43mm
Lay blocks and compact to FPL
Sorry for being so thick but I want to get my sub-base height right this weekend.
I am using 50mm blocks, how much bedding layer should I have after screeding ? this will determine the FPL I presume.
The process I presume should be:
Lay sub-base (50mm - bedding layer) from FPL
Concrete and haunch edging & soldiers (do you use mortar or sand on edging joints ? KS edges)
Lay and compact bedding layer approx 10mm higher than final screed level
Screed 41mm-43mm
Lay blocks and compact to FPL
Sorry for being so thick but I want to get my sub-base height right this weekend.
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84-1093879891
bedding layer - after screeding, the thickness of the bedding layer should be between 35 and 50mm. With 50mm blocks, using the gritstone water zone 2 sand that's popular in Wiggin, your screed level should be approx 43mm below FPL, as you generally get around 7mm of compaction, using a pre-compacted bed.
Edgings and soldiers - lay on concrete, haunch with concrete. Soldier joinbts can be sanded, kerb joints can be butt-jointed but I reckon they always look better pointed in a complementary mortar. If you;re using the red KS kerbs, use a red coloured mortar.
Once your soldiers are in place, you can use them to screed off, and the rest is a relative doddle. Was there an existing sub-base underneath that old bitmac you had on the drive?
Edgings and soldiers - lay on concrete, haunch with concrete. Soldier joinbts can be sanded, kerb joints can be butt-jointed but I reckon they always look better pointed in a complementary mortar. If you;re using the red KS kerbs, use a red coloured mortar.
Once your soldiers are in place, you can use them to screed off, and the rest is a relative doddle. Was there an existing sub-base underneath that old bitmac you had on the drive?
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87-1093879912