We've finally decided to block pave around our above ground pool (inside the white string outline as in the pics). The problem I have is the shape of the pool. It's hexagonal. What is the best method of doing this without loads of complex cutting of blocks? We're thinking of herringbone pattern if that makes any difference.
Please ignore any blocks on the ground as I've been playing!
bound to be cutting daz,its part of the paving game
day in day out
it looks like you need to dig out a bit more and put in 100mm sub base
then some edgings where the lines are
cheers LLL
Thanks but it's how to lay around the hexagonal shape that I don't understand how to do. I can't get my head around the easiest method. I know they'll be cutting but there must be some simple way of getting this into my head!!!
method 1
dig out a minimum 200mm to the total area you require to be block paved
install kerbs the required width from the pool to give the block paving lateral restraint, measure the width of the blocks and multiply to the required width of your paving plus 5mm
lay 100mm MOT type 1 to the total area and compact using a vibrating plate
lay 50mm course sand to the total area and compact using a vibrating plate
screed the sand to the correct level and fall to disperse any surface water
lay the block paving parallel to each of the sides so the only cutting you will have is on the angles of each of the corners, basically your breaking the paving up into individual sections for each of the 6 sides
you will end up with a block paved path say 1.2 metres wide around the pool with full blocks from the face of the timber frame to the kerbs and the only cutting required is to the angles
on the first photo you have laid out 5 blocks which if you moved over the width of the block to the centre of the timber on the right of where they are laid now would virtually be in the correct position for the angle
method 2
as above but dig off the ground and install the the kerbs to any shape you require as the process is exactly the same no matter what shape your paving requirements are, all that will be different is the amount of cuts
this is the correct way of installing block paving, it can be laid alternative ways but I am advising you of the correct laying procedure
hope this helps
Crystalclear
Driveway and Patio Installer
Call us today
01942 840109
7 days a week 8am till 8pm
100mm MOT type 1 sub base
50mm sand laying course
50mm block paving
you can up end a block to form a edge/soldier course, this was the only way to add a edge restraint in the late 70's/early 80's when block paving first came on the market
kerbs look more aesthetically pleasing to the eye
Crystalclear
Driveway and Patio Installer
Call us today
01942 840109
7 days a week 8am till 8pm
I want to take your advice Mick, I really do, but for many reasons (time and money being just one of them) can't. As long as 100mm down, 50mm sand, sand & cement the soldiers in place will last a couple of seasons I'll be happy.
DazzaSt wrote:I want to take your advice Mick, I really do, but for many reasons (time and money being just one of them) can't. As long as 100mm down, 50mm sand, sand & cement the soldiers in place will last a couple of seasons I'll be happy.
better to leave mud than bodge it
mick's advice was spot on
why not just throw some bark chippings down?
LLL
We've started the works and the soldier course is fine and drying. We've added a layer of sharp sand but the problem is we need some extra people with large boots and preferably really heavy to help trample it down. Do you know anyone (or 2 people) in North London that can help? Will provide food and beer money and also some background music.
You know, a few years ago I bought some 'cheap' car suspension...after 18 months it failed and I ended up buying 'decent' stuff which I know will last. Thing is, it would have cost me less in time, money and hassle to just do it 'right' the first time...guess I didn't listen to others first time around either...
my eyes ain't that bad 