Block splitters - What do you use?

[Tony McC]

The agreement I had with the Italian company that was sponsoring the Block Splitters page comes to an end in two weeks, so I'm taking the opportunity to update and re-model that particular page. It gives me the chance to include splitters from other manufacturers, including some actual British manufacturers, so I'd like a better overview of just what is being used out there.

I know there are certain manufacturers who will appear on the list, but what about the 'also-rans'. Whose splitter do you use and do you know which model?

Is there any you'd particularly recommend or avoid?

[msh paving]

There is only one block splitter- the Probst al33
I own 3 of them ranging from 1998 model to a 2 year old
one also a clay pavoir cutter by probst
Never a problem good true cuts every time
MSH



Edited By msh paving on 1355949323

[DNgroundworks]

Ive never got on with any of them, ts410 for me

[local patios and driveway]

Me too i use a stihl or a modified chop saw

[Dave_L]

Yep, the Probst combined with a TS410 here!

[lutonlagerlout]

I have had a splitter for 15 years but IIRC it is unbranded
will get a pic when i can
got 2 wheels and a handle
last time i used it,I had a neighbour moaning about the noise of the splitter chopping blocks!!!
:;):
LLL

[Tony McC]

When I've been researching this, it struck me that a number of contractors are boasting that "we don't use splitters; we only do saw cuts" as though they are somehow superior. If the cut piece is accurate and neat, it doesn't really matter what tool was used, surely?

I prefer a splitter. In the right hands, they are faster, cleaner, safer and cheaper than a saw, but they key to success is having the "right hands". I had lads working for me who could never cut a block accurately no matter how many attempts were made, but I had one or two who were operating at 95-99% accuracy. However, there are always some cuts that are just easier to do with a saw, and so I've no problem using the best tool for the job.

When I'm asked to assess jobs, if I see accurately *split* blocks at the edges, I'm fairly confident that much of the rest of the job will be sound. Saws are very forgiving and they sometimes allow the incompetent to portray themselves as just the opposite, whereas with a splitter, there's no place to hide!

I had (and have) all sorts of splitters. I think my favourite was a Montolit 6: I just got on with it really well, even though it did have its faults, not least of which was the welded-in blade. Probst had the advantage with their rotatable and easily replaceable blades. I also like the Warsop Metrix, which did have changeable blades and was incredibly stable when cutting tough blocks, such as clays or 80s. It's only drawback was it didn't have a telescopic lever for extra whoomph, although we jury-rigged something using a length of steel gas pipe. It's good to see that Warsop Metrix lives on, still manufactured in Sheffield, although now owned by Fairport Engineering.

We had a few hydraulic splitters too, usually for cropping stone. Of those, the Errut was a bit of a beast as we could get it to split 12"x6" granite kerbs to the required length in seconds, whereas even a diamond blade was taking a minute or so to effect a cut deep enough to allow a sledgehammer to snap the kerb in two.

[Nigel Walker]

The first 2 peices of decent kit I bought when I started business in 2001 was a Probst AL33 Splitter and a Probst Block Cart. I bought a second splitter in 2005.The first one I bought has just packed in this year and been replaced with another new one.

Fantastic tool for paving. I hear contractors all the time saying that they dont like them and they use a saw. Like Tony Mac says - if used properly by a competent person they give a great cut and dont make the mess or noise of a saw. A lot depends on the quality of blocks being used. The cheaper blocks are less dense and dont have that ping ( the guys who use splitters know what I mean by the Ping !) when you split them - they tend to crumble at the edges. We use a lot of Tobermore paving and they are fantastic to cut with splitter. Sometimes you have to use a saw for intricate cuts or long angles but a good splitter and a scutching hammer in the right hands is invaluable. Also a lot faster than a saw and a good work out for your right arm !

I also tried one of those small Belle splitters about 18" long. Bought it for £50 second hand. Had it for a day and then sold it for £40 . Bloody useless

About 15 years ago, we used a big Errut splitter on site for splitting large flags. I remember it was very very heavy, but a good bit of kit

Just a word on the Probst Block Cart. Best bit of equipment I have ever bought. Nearly 12 years old and still working great. It is unbelievable how much time it saves. Any paving contractor who does not use one is mad !!

[pickwell paving]

We used to use all probst splitters up until a few years ago when we bought a load of wacker ones from the sed show, they look identical except a different shade of yellow, cut just as well as the probst ones but cost about half the price. You can still spin the blade round 4 times and there still going strong now.

We nearly bought some optimas ones but the uk distributor never got back to us about them.

Block barrows are one of the best things you could buy, no double handling blocks, saves so much time on big and small areas. We've still got a probst one from 1990 and apart from a couple of welds in a few areas it still works brilliantly, over 20 years old and it's paid for itself time and time again in labour costs.

[local patios and driveway]

Im not bragging when i say i use a stihl and not a block cutter, for one ive never seen a driveway done with a block splitter that looked perfect you can always tell. Secondly i use the lay and cut method which is 20 times faster than a block splitter and 99% spot on accurate.

[Nigel Walker]

Never been keen on the overlay and cut method. Unless you take time before you mark the blocks to re arrange the pattern, you always end up with darts and slips.
I much prefer laying the border detail and then marking and cutting as you go along.
If you are good and experienced at using a splitter, you can cover a length of paving of 10 metres in around 25 mins - based on 45 degree herringbone cuts. This way you can re-use offcuts as you go along - minimising wastage
Using the overlay and cut method you need to re arrange the blocks before you mark them to ensure you are not getting small cuts, then mark the blocks, then cut with saw, then remove all off cuts, then titivate the bedding sand, then lay the border plus sweep all the dust up Might take slightly less time than 25 minutes, but not much
Everyone has their own way of doing things and if the final outcome is the same then it does not matter how it is achieved.

We were laying a drive 3 weeks ago on a self build site and some of the awkward cuts had to be done with a saw. Would you believe that just as we started cutting, I saw 2 blokes with hi vis jackets in corner of my eye. Health and Safety standing there shaking their heads. Got a right bollocking and a lecture on dry cutting and damage to health etc etc. I said sorry sir and proceeded to connect the hose pipe to the saw.
If using the lay and cut method using a saw with water, this would create a big mess on newly laid paving, which would require washing off. This also may mean that the paving would not get sanded and compacted that day.

As I have said, each to their own, but I know which method I prefer. Plus you dont have to wash down all the clients windows and doors when you finish !

[dig dug dan]

Block cutter all the way, except when you need lots of halfs for 90 degree herringbone, and then I use the stihl. A block cutter is quicker and less mess

[lutonlagerlout]

in the recent cold snap using water was impossible due to air temperatures of minus something all day
block splitters are good in the right hands,and i find they work well as long as the cuts are big enough
so in a way it encourages you to do inboard cutting
1 thing I havent done for years is lay the border first and then try and measure cuts to it
far more accurate to lay the body up to your kerbs or edgings and then mark with a straight edge or whatever and a blue marker
then move along with your splitter
I can remember those big old 100mm beasts in the 80's we used to measure,mark cut 10 mm with am angle grinder then chop it with a hammer and bolster
ignorance was bliss
LLL

[haggistini]

Birchwood splitter ill race any one on here! and then run the saw up the joint spot on! Cuts clay and granite too about £280-£340 I found the probst too bulky to drag along as you cut

[Tony McC]

Birchwood were good value, but they went into partnership with some outfit by the name of Price Tools and have subsequently been bought out by Travis Bloody Perkins, who seem to have decided they don't want the block splitters.

I'm fairly sure the so-called Wacker splitters were the Probst design manufactured in a cheaper Eastern European country. There are lots of incredibly-similar-to-Probst tools on that EBay.

I still can't find another British or Irish manufacturer, other than Fairport/Warsop Metrix. Matholite seem to have gone bump and resurrected as a civils company. Anyone recall any others?