Are the ones with the gradient easier to use than a standard level for paving ?
Is the bubble always in the middle, Rather then to one side with a conventional level ? for creating the fall
Spirit levels
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I recently borrowed a 'gradient' spirit level and found it too difficult to use and not that accurate. I found it easier to peg and mark the true level across the site and then measure down at the last peg for your gradient.
In my example, my length was 5m and so using a 1:60 fall I measure down around 8cm on the last peg, joined the level mark on the first peg to this new mark on the last peg and hey presto, the finished line of my patio.
In my example, my length was 5m and so using a 1:60 fall I measure down around 8cm on the last peg, joined the level mark on the first peg to this new mark on the last peg and hey presto, the finished line of my patio.
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I had an interesting call while I was over in Ireland last week. Someone else had one of these "gradient levels" and was struggling to create a 1:40 crossfall using the very limited range of options provided by the yoke. The level could do 1:4, but not 1:40, 1:60 or any other suitable gradient. I'm sure a 45º angle (1:1) is useful for summat, but it's not the sort of gradient we'd encounter too often in the paving and drainage trades.
InfAddict is right: use a level (spirit level, automatic level, cowley level, dumpy level, theodolite, earth station or whatever) to create a level plane over the site and then measure up or down at specific points as required to create the necessary gradients. The simple methods are usually the best!
InfAddict is right: use a level (spirit level, automatic level, cowley level, dumpy level, theodolite, earth station or whatever) to create a level plane over the site and then measure up or down at specific points as required to create the necessary gradients. The simple methods are usually the best!
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