Border bricks on concrete bed - Is this necessary with edging strips

[gricerdave]

Hello again. We have now bedded and haunched edging strips on all sides except the house wall, so all is contained. We are a bit confused about the outside edge bricks that will butt up to the strips. Do they need to be bedded onto concrete, or is this just to keep them in place for screeding purposes.
Many thanks,

[alan ditchfield]

Only the perimeter needs to be bedded on concrete once this has gone of you are ready to scread and lay the block. Alan

[gricerdave]

Sorry to appear dense, Alan, but I still don't understand. What do you mean by the perimeter? The diagram on the edging course page shows the bricks next to the house wall on concrete. I don't see the difference between the house wall and the edging strips as (hopefully) none of them will move. Do you mean that all the bricks next to the edging strips should be on concrete, or that they can go straight on sand?
Again sorry to be thick, we are complete beginners.

[alan ditchfield]

Im not sure i understand but all you have to do is lay the outer course of block ie the perimeter on concrete, then haunch this course at the outer edge obviously you cannot haunch the blocks that run along the house wall and you do not have to as the wall itself will retain the block. I have looked at the page you have mentioned above and im not sure if you are refering to using a kurb aswell as an edging strip of block. if so the kurb and the edging should be on concrete just so the edging strip can be used as a guide for the screed, i hope this makes sense Alan.

[James C]

I don't know about you Alan but i don't bother bedding blocks on concrete against a wall as i can set in a screed rail much faster than bedding blocks in. James.

[gricerdave]

Sorry it wasn't clear, I'll try again. The 3 sides that are not the house wall are edged with 150 x50 x 3' edging strips, concreted and haunched, so that there is a solid edge all around the 4 sides including the house to prevent the bedding from slipping, which I would have thought is the perimeter. The diagram I referred to was "edging bricks against a retaining wall" showing the bricks against the house wall on 50mm concrete. If these need to be on concrete, do the ones next to the edging strips, or is this unnecessary? These bricks couldn't be haunched as they need to be flush to the wall or strips.
Thankyou for your patience.

(Edited by gricerdave at 8:26 am on Aug. 14, 2004)

[alan ditchfield]

Do you mean you have used a 3ft*6inch flag on edge as an edging strip, if so its not something i have ever done but i assume it would not be as strong as a soldier course but im not sure as i have said ive never done this, as for the house walls i usually lay all the perimeter on concrete but this is personall prefference and James is correct in saying it is not really necessary as it is allready retained by the house.

[gricerdave]

If you look on the "Concrete bedded edging" page, and scroll down to the first picture, this is what we have used - edging kerbs - although the one shown is probably thicker. They are available in bullnose, round top and straight top. We understood that they should be used on unrestrained edges. Ours meet the public pavement and next doors path.

[alan ditchfield]

I think im with you if im looking at the right pic it says Type EF Edging Kerb this is what i meant by flag on edge granted it is not a flag but it is what i call it. if this is what you have used it will probably be ok to screed of this and lay all the block directly on sand, but make sure the back of the edgings are well haunched with a strong concrete. Alan

[James C]

We always use flat top path edgings (unless its fancy kerb units) around our block paving. They are quick to install before type 1 is delivered and can be cut onsite to the necessary length to form nice curves. They are rock solid once installed and are simple to screed off.
James

(Edited by James C at 6:16 pm on Aug. 14, 2004)

[alan ditchfield]

how do you get on with tight curves and rounded slopes, do you not think that the extra time is worth it for asthetics. It does not take much longer to run in a soldier and they look far better and they give a better job in the end, dont you think.

[James C]

Don't get me wrong although they are quick i'd never jeopardise the final out come of a job for the sake of speed. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and never ever cut corners, just like you I'm sure (even at my loss sometimes)
I can cut an edging to any size you like for nice curves and the same for roll-overs.
All that said if you, me and our clients are happy and its laid to British Standards then its all good.
I'd love to see your website do you have one Alan?

[alan ditchfield]

Not at the moment we are hoping to have one up and running by the end of the year, i will modify my profile as soon as it is online. Do you have a website James?.

Alan

[James C]

Not yet Alan. My brother said he would build me one once I have broadband installed. I've done this now and I'm still waiting. That's family for ya.
Could you tell me approx. how much your materials only including V.A.T work out for an average 50m block drive with a 150mm sub-base costs up your way.
Much appreciated James.

[alan ditchfield]

Depends on block type and quantity but roughly an average would be about £25.00 / m2 a rough guide would be £60/m2 laid depending on excavation how does this compare in your area. Alan.