Is cotswold gravel ok for a concrete path? - Concrete path

[DerekH]

Hi, I'm new here so please bare with me.
Last February we had extensive work done to our garden including a large decked area and a gravel path laid with timber edging. We've been generally very happy with the work done but since the onset of autumn and winter have found that the gravel path isn't as servicable as we'd hoped.
The path is about 800mm wide and snakes from start to finish over about 10 metres on an incline of 500mm or so. There is a geotex mebrane layed under the entire path which is laid using 15mm - 20mm Cotswold chippings to a depth of 75 - 100mm but as deep as 150mm in some areas. The chippings were bedded in well with a wacker plate to finish off.
Some of the problem we have is that the chippings still produce a whitish residue which walks indoors even after 12 months weathering and the surface tends to move under foot a lot more then we expected. It's also difficult to keep clean.
A concrete or slabbed path was consider but we decided against that on the grounds of expense. We intended to extend the path further our selves using the same method as our funds are now limited.
So on a DIY basis would it be viable to use some or all the cotswold chippings as the gravel to create a reasonable concrete path. Also would the chippings in the concrete still produce the same white residue.
I appreciate there will be a lot of heavy work involved and will need to hire a cement mixer plus the additional cost of sand and cement.
Would be grateful for any observations, advise or alternatives.

[irishpaving]

Hi Derek....

Firstly that is way too deep for gravel. Around 35mm of gravel laid on a well compacted sub base is suitable for a path. As for the white stuff it could be the crushing of the gravel that is leaving the residue. I take it that no sub base was placed before laying the gravel so it would be best to clear all the gravel and start again. The gravel will not leave any white residue once mixed with sand and cement. Would love to say more but the match sticks are really hurting my eyes now. :;):

[seanandruby]

Hi Derek. Using a concrete mix for a path has to be done right, as if it's not it can look awful. Have you any experience, as a DIYer with concrete? Maybe a resin based scatter, or bonded surface might be a better option.

[GB_Groundworks]

as sean says you could make a dog's diner of it, concrete finishing is an art and has to be done at the right time sometimes in the dark till the cretes at the perfect consistency.

i'd want to know why your installer but your gravel down so thick as a. it makes it very hard going to walk on and b. decrotive gravel is 4x more expensive than mot for the subbase.

at that depth your going to be getting the chippings from the bottom migrating to the top hence the white residue

if you strip it back, pile it up and lay a subbase of type 1 mot up to 30-35mm below the top of the timber edge and then compact relay a 1/4 of the gravel and compact it should be a lot better path and the weather will was out the residue in no time.

[Tony McC]

Cotswold gravel is notoriously soft. It's a limestone, but a very poorly cemented one, so it degrades even under foot traffic, which is the source of the white dust you mention.

While it does suit the immediate area of the Cotswolds, there are other, harder gravels that should be used in preference to Cotswold. They don't crush down as readily, and they remain clean.

You could use the salvaged gravel as a coarse aggregate for concrete, but any gravel that finds itself at the upper surface of the concrete faces the same problems: it will rapidly wear.

One option would be to use the salvaged gravel to make a base concrete, say 80mm depth, and then top it with 20-30mm of quality concrete made with an attractive hard-wearing coarse aggregate. The surface can then be retarded and exposed to leave a gravel-like path that's actually concrete.

Read more here