Continuing herringbone pattern
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Tony McC
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8346
- Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
- Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
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Firstly, is it essential to maintain the pattern? Could you not start again with the herringbone on the other side of the slot drain?
If the pattern and alignment *must* be maintained, then the way to do it is to use taut string lines from the existing stretched over the new artea to be paved. This gives you the angle and alignment.
The second part is to maintain the spacing, to give the impression that the slot drain has been inserted into a pre-existing panel of blocks. Two ways to do thios: either use acutal blocks propped up on sand or other bits of blocks to form a bridge over the slot drain, and then, once clear of the drain, start again with conventional laying, or, the alternative, is to measure the distance and mark it as necessary.
Let's assume you will be missing 3 courses of blocks to accommodate the slot drain. On the existing paving, you measure three courses and find that, allowing for the jointing, it's 406mm. Simply measure 406mm from the last full block of the existing paving, again bridging over the slot drain, mark the position, and start to lay full blocks again.
Once you have a reasonable area of full blocks laid, you can drop back and start to cut-in against the slot drain, once you've checked that the spacing and alignment looks right.
Does that make sense?
If the pattern and alignment *must* be maintained, then the way to do it is to use taut string lines from the existing stretched over the new artea to be paved. This gives you the angle and alignment.
The second part is to maintain the spacing, to give the impression that the slot drain has been inserted into a pre-existing panel of blocks. Two ways to do thios: either use acutal blocks propped up on sand or other bits of blocks to form a bridge over the slot drain, and then, once clear of the drain, start again with conventional laying, or, the alternative, is to measure the distance and mark it as necessary.
Let's assume you will be missing 3 courses of blocks to accommodate the slot drain. On the existing paving, you measure three courses and find that, allowing for the jointing, it's 406mm. Simply measure 406mm from the last full block of the existing paving, again bridging over the slot drain, mark the position, and start to lay full blocks again.
Once you have a reasonable area of full blocks laid, you can drop back and start to cut-in against the slot drain, once you've checked that the spacing and alignment looks right.
Does that make sense?
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