Cutting 16mm porcelain
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Is it worth looking at getting a bridge tile cutter?
I see that a wet tile saw should cope with 16mm porcelain plaving, but the length I need might push the price up.
The longest slab is 1200mm and I don't plan on any diagonals.
In the grand scheme of things, spending £1200 on a cutter and selling it after for £600 isn't too painfull, if it makes the job a lot less difficult.
Looking at laying about 150sqm in total.
I see that a wet tile saw should cope with 16mm porcelain plaving, but the length I need might push the price up.
The longest slab is 1200mm and I don't plan on any diagonals.
In the grand scheme of things, spending £1200 on a cutter and selling it after for £600 isn't too painfull, if it makes the job a lot less difficult.
Looking at laying about 150sqm in total.
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I'd be a bit wary as these thicker porcelains/ceramics we are using for paving (and 16mm is a tad on the slender side, TBH) are a bit awkward to cut wiuth anything other than a dedicated porcelain-cutting blade, and that, in turn, is best attached to a table saw of some form.
If you can find a second-hand table saw for sale, you should be able to recoup what it cost if you sell it on after a few weeks/months. The only real cost to you would be that of acquiring a good quality blade.
If you can find a second-hand table saw for sale, you should be able to recoup what it cost if you sell it on after a few weeks/months. The only real cost to you would be that of acquiring a good quality blade.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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We bought A rubi DC-250 1200 bed for £750 or so, and upgraded the blades to some from Pulvex, cuts really well, as long as you keep running the blade through an abrasive block every 3/4 cuts, good bed size and should last us at least a couple of years, so it'll pay for itself. Hopefully it'll outlast the fashion for F*%kin Porcelain anyway!:(
Gi it sum ommer
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The use of an abrasive cleaning block is the key to any sort of performance and longevity from a blade cutting porcelain. Many of the tilers already know this, but it's taking a while to feed through to the paving trade, unfortunately.
I spoke with a couple of quality blade suppliers earlier this year and that was a common theme - inexperienced users complaining "that blade is crap" when all that was wrong is that it was gunged up after being forced (literally) through a dozen or more 20mm porcelain pieces.
The other issue that came up: the pathetically small number of installers that smooth-off an edge after it's been cut. It can make such a difference to the finished appearance, but so few bother, sadly.
I spoke with a couple of quality blade suppliers earlier this year and that was a common theme - inexperienced users complaining "that blade is crap" when all that was wrong is that it was gunged up after being forced (literally) through a dozen or more 20mm porcelain pieces.
The other issue that came up: the pathetically small number of installers that smooth-off an edge after it's been cut. It can make such a difference to the finished appearance, but so few bother, sadly.
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Tony, some of the cheaper Porcelain on the market doesn't really allow you to finish the cut edge off properly, it's only got a surface pattena, so if you try anything other than a simple cut, you end up with a nasty discoloured edge detail, as you remove the surface finish rather than enhance it. It also chips easily, again leaving you with a mark you can't really hide. This only seems apparent in "entry level" Porcelain, which isn't produced in Spain or Italy.
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Normally I would avoid anything "budget", but markets dictate and a lot of contractors are installing cheaper Porcelain, all the stockists are selling it and as with natural stone, it started off relatively expensive and prices soon fall as competition kicks in. We try and specify better materials but client's ideals and reality rarely meet :rock:
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