Recess cover - lowering advice

Foul and surface water, private drains and public sewers, land drains and soakaways, filter drains and any other ways of getting rid of water.
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mosquat
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:18 pm
Location: Torbay

Post: # 113800Post mosquat

Hi all,

I need to lower the existing cover slightly, and then I can hopefully fit a square to round recess cover.

however has anyone got any advice on what I can do with the current riser (pictured)? It seems to be made of metal so not sure if it can be cut or maybe there are "rings" I can remove once the existing cover is removed?

hoping someone has seen one of these before and can point me in the right direction:

Image

Cheers for any help

Carl

digerjones
Posts: 889
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Location: cheshire

Post: # 113802Post digerjones

I would say they are plastic risers, if so quiet straight forward.
dylan

seanandruby
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:01 am
Location: eastbourne

Post: # 113804Post seanandruby

The cover is metal about 30ish ml thick. The risers will be plastic, about 300ish in height. I presume this will be in a driveway? Cut the existing to required height allowing an upstand to stop concrete falling in i c. The top 150 will need to be a concrete plinth. Wrap around the fins with something so that no concrete actually touches the fins , that way the i c won't be load bearing.
sean

mosquat
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:18 pm
Location: Torbay

Post: # 113805Post mosquat

Thanks for the advice, I will double check them again but they feel metallic, I hope you're right of course.

Sean - great advice. Are the fins the technical term for the riser rings? Sorry for the dumb Q

seanandruby
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Post: # 113809Post seanandruby

If they are metal then you will need to cut with a petrol saw such as sthill saw and metal cutting blade. No a riser is correct term. As you can see it's smooth on the inside riser but on the outside there are 'fins'. If you sctatch the inside with a nail, screwdriver, it will give you an idea of material used. Never come across a metal riser before.
sean

Tony McC
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Post: # 113832Post Tony McC

They are plastic risers/raising sections, so it's nowt more complicated than breaking out the concrete haunch around the existing circular frame and then using a nangle grinder to slice through the riser from inside the chamber.

Best to dig out around the raising piece *before* you cut it, to a depth roughly 50-100mm below where you intend to cut it, so that the backfill material doesn't fall into the chamber whgen you remove the unwanted section.
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mosquat
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:18 pm
Location: Torbay

Post: # 113840Post mosquat

Cheers everyone, consensus this end is plastic too, glad we had this discussion all the same

jwill
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 6:00 pm
Location: leic

Post: # 113845Post jwill

So these lids should always be bedded off the subbase rather than connect to risers if in a driveway?

seanandruby
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Post: # 113846Post seanandruby

All I Cs inspection chambers, covers, lids etc: have different loadings, surround specs' etc: in a drive there must be 150 ml deep concrete plinth surround.
sean

Tony McC
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Post: # 113855Post Tony McC

The circular covers for circular ICs bed directly onto the raising rings but, when used in a pavement subject to vehicular traffic, they are usually set onto a concrete bed which surrounds the raising ring, to reduce the vertical loading on the IC.
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jwill
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2016 6:00 pm
Location: leic

Post: # 113857Post jwill

Yes understand. Still connected but bedded/haunched to spread load

seanandruby
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Location: eastbourne

Post: # 113858Post seanandruby

Bearing in mind the vertical load is still imposed if concreting directly against the ribs/fins. An external shutter is needed around the riser to avoid concreting the ribs/fins with concrete collar. The collar/plinth needs to be wide enough to carry the frame.
sean

Forestboy1978
Posts: 1000
Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 9:57 am
Location: southampton, hampshire

Post: # 114038Post Forestboy1978

I did this exact thing only last month to 3 drains that were creating tripping hazards. Marked a line where I wanted to cut, drilled a hole and then cut through them like swiss cheese with a jigsaw. Billed an architectural company 270 for that and re haunching the lid supports. Took me 2 hours including travel time. Was chuffed as pie.

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