Recent work
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I once worked for a builder who insisted I lay his frozen turfs on snow covered ground. Amazingly, they grew quite well!
Dan the Crusher Man
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www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
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"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
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Seen as for once you guys are talking about something I know well for a change I thought I'd chime in.
Wakering shouldn't be done mate sorry. It'll encourage shallow rooting and the grass wont benefit in the long term. Rotavate and improve, rake and level, heel in, and then re level if necessary. Can kind of screed off with the back of the landscape rake if you want really level ground. I always make it 1cm proud anyway for some settling. If you added perlite or vermiculite to the soil several inches down you might get away with wacking but even then it's not advisable. Keeping a good lawn is about keeping the soil aerated over time as it tends to compact itself. Whacking would just accelerate that process. Other than that the work looks grand.
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/venn34zwe0vjcof/20121004_153531.jpg?dl=0
Wakering shouldn't be done mate sorry. It'll encourage shallow rooting and the grass wont benefit in the long term. Rotavate and improve, rake and level, heel in, and then re level if necessary. Can kind of screed off with the back of the landscape rake if you want really level ground. I always make it 1cm proud anyway for some settling. If you added perlite or vermiculite to the soil several inches down you might get away with wacking but even then it's not advisable. Keeping a good lawn is about keeping the soil aerated over time as it tends to compact itself. Whacking would just accelerate that process. Other than that the work looks grand.
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/venn34zwe0vjcof/20121004_153531.jpg?dl=0
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Cheers Mick, that kind of work should never be undertaken sober
forestboy, I just Googled compacting soil and I found this on the first page I came to that explains exactly the way I prepared and laid this turf.
Assuming that no land drainage is required, or that it is already in place, and the essential soil preparation has been done, the area can now be levelled. At this stage, this needs only be done quite roughly, as the worked-over ground will need some time to settle. Use the spade to grade off the soil to an approximate level. You can use a long straight-edged timber to check your level, or use a taut string line to check that there are no noticeable humps or hollows. Use your body weight to trample the soil, consolidating it, but not overly so. A lightweight (ie less than 100Kg) garden roller can be used, if required, but don't use a vibrating roller or plate compactor, unless you are on very sandy free-draining soil.
Here is the site address it came from http://www.u-r-g.co.uk/faqlawn.htm
I've been trying to explain this since the first post about the wacker, I'mm sorry if I didn't explain it as well as it's explained in the article but I can't really say anymore on the subject.
forestboy, I just Googled compacting soil and I found this on the first page I came to that explains exactly the way I prepared and laid this turf.
Assuming that no land drainage is required, or that it is already in place, and the essential soil preparation has been done, the area can now be levelled. At this stage, this needs only be done quite roughly, as the worked-over ground will need some time to settle. Use the spade to grade off the soil to an approximate level. You can use a long straight-edged timber to check your level, or use a taut string line to check that there are no noticeable humps or hollows. Use your body weight to trample the soil, consolidating it, but not overly so. A lightweight (ie less than 100Kg) garden roller can be used, if required, but don't use a vibrating roller or plate compactor, unless you are on very sandy free-draining soil.
Here is the site address it came from http://www.u-r-g.co.uk/faqlawn.htm
I've been trying to explain this since the first post about the wacker, I'mm sorry if I didn't explain it as well as it's explained in the article but I can't really say anymore on the subject.
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Most golf courses and football pitches are hollow core areated every year to allow for free drainage to relieve compaction. To avoid the shallow rooting you describe.Forestboy1978 wrote:Seen as for once you guys are talking about something I know well for a change I thought I'd chime in.
Wakering shouldn't be done mate sorry. It'll encourage shallow rooting and the grass wont benefit in the long term. Rotavate and improve, rake and level, heel in, and then re level if necessary. Can kind of screed off with the back of the landscape rake if you want really level ground. I always make it 1cm proud anyway for some settling. If you added perlite or vermiculite to the soil several inches down you might get away with wacking but even then it's not advisable. Keeping a good lawn is about keeping the soil aerated over time as it tends to compact itself. Whacking would just accelerate that process. Other than that the work looks grand.
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s....pg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/venn34zwe0vjcof/20121004_153531.jpg?dl=0
Dan the Crusher Man
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
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I have to say i am in the no wackering camp.
The one thing you can't fix once the turf is down is soil structure.
I would rather top dress a few low spots in 2 years time than compromise the soil structure and end up with a poorer lawn long term.
As dan said its a very different thing when your laying on rootzone or heavily managed turf which is aerated every year.
The one thing you can't fix once the turf is down is soil structure.
I would rather top dress a few low spots in 2 years time than compromise the soil structure and end up with a poorer lawn long term.
As dan said its a very different thing when your laying on rootzone or heavily managed turf which is aerated every year.
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Did you have to dig a new soakaway or use an existing?
Dan the Crusher Man
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"
01442 212315
www.crusherhire.co.uk
"a satisfied customer? we should have them stuffed!"