Bathroom tiling - Problems removing old tiles
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About 6 months ago i discovered the water had been getting behind the tiles on the shower of the ensuite bathroom, so i decided to bite the bullet and buy a whole new shower.
In removing the old tiles, the plasterboard behind was so wet, it just crumbled away. Anyway, I ended up plywooding the sections thatwere rotten, then i got the plumber to install the shower tray, sealing it to the walls, then i set about tiling.
Problem i had was the old tiles (plain white ) must have been smaller in size, as the only way i could match up the rows, was to butt joint them. This left little room for grout, and now the water has got behind the tiles again
So was thinking about just re tiling the whole bathroom, (only way i can match)but...
How do i remove the tiles from the plasterboard walls without destroying the plasterboard? or do i just accept the fact that I am going to have to strip the whole room back to the frame (timber framed house) and start again.
If i do the later, platserboard or plywood?
Edited By dig dug dan on 1258044221
In removing the old tiles, the plasterboard behind was so wet, it just crumbled away. Anyway, I ended up plywooding the sections thatwere rotten, then i got the plumber to install the shower tray, sealing it to the walls, then i set about tiling.
Problem i had was the old tiles (plain white ) must have been smaller in size, as the only way i could match up the rows, was to butt joint them. This left little room for grout, and now the water has got behind the tiles again
So was thinking about just re tiling the whole bathroom, (only way i can match)but...
How do i remove the tiles from the plasterboard walls without destroying the plasterboard? or do i just accept the fact that I am going to have to strip the whole room back to the frame (timber framed house) and start again.
If i do the later, platserboard or plywood?
Edited By dig dug dan on 1258044221
Dan the Crusher Man
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Cement board is best, particularly for the shower area. It is a building reg in some US states that you have to use cement board around showers. Elsewhere I would use plasterboard - much cheaper than ply in the UK IIRC
I think you will just have to pull the old plasterboard down and replace. But it shouldn't cost much to replasterboard unless your bathroom is really massive.
I think you will just have to pull the old plasterboard down and replace. But it shouldn't cost much to replasterboard unless your bathroom is really massive.
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you can tile over the old tiles but to be honest this can cause further problems like having problems turning taps and that on and off.
Its best to remove the old tiles and put in new, just take it easy but if the plaster does come off you will need to replace it, as ted says a backing board is best in wet areas such as showers but having said that i dint use any.
wicks does some stuff if i recall correct for the wet areas
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Aquapan....1
Its best to remove the old tiles and put in new, just take it easy but if the plaster does come off you will need to replace it, as ted says a backing board is best in wet areas such as showers but having said that i dint use any.
wicks does some stuff if i recall correct for the wet areas
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Aquapan....1
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Its the old 'imperial v's metric' you will find one tile is a Brit and the other is probably Turkish.
Wouldnt recommend marine ply for the shower as it needs special adhesive to bond properly, if the tiles are fitted correctly, plaster board is fine. Use shower proof adh and grout. You can go epxoy,but its like trying to grout with Wrigleys Gum.
I used shower proof fix-and-grout for our shower room. I was always told that it wasnt any good, load of guff, 2 years on and not a leak or loose tile.
Hp
Wouldnt recommend marine ply for the shower as it needs special adhesive to bond properly, if the tiles are fitted correctly, plaster board is fine. Use shower proof adh and grout. You can go epxoy,but its like trying to grout with Wrigleys Gum.
I used shower proof fix-and-grout for our shower room. I was always told that it wasnt any good, load of guff, 2 years on and not a leak or loose tile.
Hp
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as i suspected. I think for the longterm, a complete re-fit is the order of the day
Thanks for the wickes link. That stuff looks good. I will go for that i think. How to you seal the joints between that stuff though?
Thanks for the wickes link. That stuff looks good. I will go for that i think. How to you seal the joints between that stuff though?
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the wickes board is the way to go then ball adhesive for fixing butt up boards then cork with adhesive dont buy cheap shite.ps you can screw the boards then cork over them thats bomb proof do a google search you may get boards cheaper :p cookie
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Should be an epoxy based flexible adh.Suggers wrote:I too have always used marine ply in wet areas wih no probs - that waterproof adhesive & grout sticks like the proverbial to anything...
Nightmare to use and costs a packet. If the tiles are fitted correctly, there's no chance of the water getting anywhere near the plasterboard.
Dont like the panels, if something goes tits behind it, you have to rip the lot out or cut a hole in it...not nice.
Hp
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henpecked wrote:Should be an epoxy based flexible adh.
Nightmare to use and costs a packet.
Agree about the nightmare - managed to get dollops on acrylic shower-tray (although we'd covered it) - attacked & damaged surface - had to replace
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