Page 1 of 2
Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:12 pm
by loudog
Hi to all, ive been asked to chip and spray a drive, The drive is just two tracks of concrete about 12mts long each. Is it as easy as to put some tack coat down (60%) i am guessing and lay 10mm chips on top, any advise would be great.
Cheers Chaps
Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:06 pm
by msh paving
im not a mackytar expert but tack coat won't stick them ,you need hot tar for them to stick into MSH 
Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:28 pm
by bobbi o
Colas Leochip and 10mm clean. not for this time of the year-wait till spring.
Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 5:44 pm
by Tony McC
Usually a hot bitumen emulsion used at this time of year. Definitely NOT tack-coat.
I'd pass on this one to a full-time tar'n'chip specialist. It's a messy, messy job that needs specialist kit and plenty of experience.
It's more than a decade since I last looked at a tar'n'chip job, but back then it had to be 150m² or more to be economic, otherwise it was cheaper to do a 20mm overlay.
Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 4:28 pm
by loudog
Thanks for your feedback. Could i use a hot bitchy pot like roofers use, i have plenty of bitumen blocks so couldn't i just heat them up, pour on with can and put chippings on the top, the tracks are about 12 metres long by half metre wide, i coud just do a little at a time so the bitumen doesn't go off, what do you think.
regards
Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 5:51 pm
by Tony McC
Nope - wrong sort of bitumen.
Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 1:25 pm
by loudog
The reason the client wants chip and spray is because it is on a steep slope, and he has it in his head that would be best as his road is done out in it, any other idears i can tell him.
Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 10:57 am
by Tony McC
Before Simeon jumps in ...resin based surfacing would seem to be the answer
Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:00 am
by Dave_L
But at a considerable price premium compared to surface dressing!
Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:06 am
by Tony McC
Resin would be significantly more expensive on a larger job, but anything under, say, 50m², there's not much in it. Very, very roughly, 50m² of resin bond would cost around 2 grand. I doubt I'd be able to get a surface dressing gang in for much less than 1500 quid.
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:33 pm
by loudog
Prob will have to go back to the drawing board as this guy doesnt want to spend much, think he has a budget of £500, he doesn't care what it looks like, he just wants a bit of traction on those steep tracks of his
Posted: Tue Nov 30, 2010 6:03 pm
by Tony McC
Saw cuts and chasing at a alight downhill angle?
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:12 am
by loudog
Thanks but can you explain a little more on that Tony
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:09 am
by GB_Groundworks
Add texture to existing concrete by scouring it with a cut off saw and diamond blade.
Use regular intervals and I'd be rigging some kind of jig up to get a consistent depth of cut and use water suppression
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:17 am
by Tony McC
Sorry - I should have made it clearer.
Make parallel saw cuts approx 25mm apart, and just 6-10mm deep. Allow 100mm or so between each pair of cuts. Direct the cuts so there is a downhill fall.
Then, chisel out (known as 'chasing') the concrete between the parallel cuts. This gives a roughly textured surface that should offer a bit more traction. The reason for ensuring there is a fall should be apparent - you don't want water accumulating in the chased cuts where it will turn to ice.
It's not particularly pretty, but for 500 quid, you're not going to get much else.