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Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:57 pm
by intercityuk
I will try to be brief. I'm now going to concrete an area of 38m2 at 100mm the widest part will be 3.3m. I will be using the concrete with fibres in-
1. Do i still need Reinforcement ( one web site says i don't )
2. will i still need joints its 19m long but most is 2.6m wide
3. what should i put between where the concrete meets the house wall
4. 4m3 with fibers delivered and vat £472 does that sound like a average price
5. Do i need to seal the concrete after or just leave it
6. I understand i have to put dpc before the concrete but wont that stop it binding to the base and make it weaker
sorry for the length and thank you for any answers ???
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 5:58 pm
by GB_Groundworks
For a drive then yes you need a142 mesh, fibres help reduce plastic cracking but mesh adds structural strength
A joint or a control crack setting would be advisable but not necessary for just domestic use.
Where it meets house you'll need some expansion material, make sure it falls away from the house
Yeah average price to a diyer
You can leave it or seal it, what finish are you doing basic rough tamped, brushed, power floated?
No the dpc will not, the 8 tons of mass and it's mono construction prevent it from moving.
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:31 pm
by intercityuk
Thanks very much Giles the finish will be probably just brushed, thanks again for all the info. This seems to be the cheapest way for me to do my drive, any other cheap options ? maybe secondhand 3 x 2 flags or dare i say loose gravel !!!!! Maybe i could spray clear varnish on top of the gravel to stop it moving, ONLY JOKING.
cheers ???
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:29 am
by lutonlagerlout
concrete unless it is done to a very high standard will look cheap and nasty and detract from your home
concrete block paving isnt much more expensive and can look fantastic given a little thought
just my 2p
LLL
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:08 am
by seanandruby
you will need crack control joints. 19 metres is a long way in one go for a beginner. you need fibre board against house wall with 20 Ml rebate at top for sealing. What about drainage at wall?
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:59 am
by intercityuk
Thanks for everybodys comments. i agree that block paving would look much better and only cost a little more. But i have never done block paving before and can't afford to get some one in. However i'm very tempted to give it ago because the drive leads to the back yard which also needs doing so total area is 54m2 in concrete 6m3 ish total delivered £637+rienforcement and stuff and cheap block paving £900 ish materials only. Wish i had done it before then i would be more confident !!!!! decisions decisions
Thank you all ???
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 12:13 pm
by jonnyboyentire
Do it wrong/do it cheap = hate it or do it twice.
If you use CBP you can lift and re-lay with minimum wasteage costs, you are providing the labour so irrelevant.
If you cock up the concrete you can't re-use it.
CBP every time!
Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:00 pm
by intercityuk
Very good point think i'm going cbp i can buy all the materials in one go, but can i do it in sections like think of a rectangle with kerb/edging all the way round could i split it in half or do you have to have an "edge" all the way around so i can spread the work out a bit ? if you get my drift.
cheers ???
Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:32 pm
by seanandruby
yes you can do it in stages. Finish a section with an edging laid on concrete, complete it. When you start your next phase leave the edging in place and work away from it, lay the next section with complete edging and again fill it in etc: do maybe three, or four phases on your length of drive in equal distances. It will add strengh to your drive and reduce the chance of block migration.