Page 1 of 1
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:05 pm
by rab1
i've just bought a new bachelor pad (nationwide paid). but i`m looking to build a garage and i`m looking for any tips etc. ie depth of founds/ twin or single skin etc etc ???
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:19 pm
by Carberry
twin skin with insulation so you have a place to hide from the mrs.
Make it look like a garage on the outside, turn the inside in to a Man Cave
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:25 pm
by rab1
we split up, now in the mothers spare room hence the bachelor pad bit. 
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:34 pm
by msh paving
Scottish building regs. could be different from england, might be worth asking local builders what is done in the area, by the way i'm looking for any work at mo. rab MSH 
Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 8:09 pm
by henpecked
Its good to think ahead, so if you can go the cavity route, it would work out hand long term. Also, think about a high gable, you can build to 4m as long as its 6m from the house (LLL will correct me if Im wrong) so use the extra space to its full.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:18 pm
by rab1
mark, i`d love too mate but this is a budget job. i`m looking at the founds right now and was looking for real info on what is required depth/width wise etc.
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:17 pm
by lutonlagerlout
all founds must be 1 m minimum below existing ground level
if a machine does them a 450 bucket is wide enough for a cavity wall plus overhang
most garages are single skin as they are purely for storage,so 2300 opening for the door and 2 piers at the front of 335mm or 450 mm
slab should be min 100mm thick concrete on type1
flat roof is fine
on a budget i reckon you could do a single garage for 3.5-4k
that is doing nearly all the ground work yourself
LLL
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:27 pm
by local patios and driveway
If theres no trees build it on a raft rather than strip foundation, thats your foundations and floor poured in one go. As the rest have said insulation is key nowt worse than a garage thats cold and mildew etc gets on everything. If its budget, timber frame and clad on maybe 4 course of brick? Insulate then plasterboard
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:36 am
by lutonlagerlout
if you do a raft use a toe and mesh Rab
the rafts i see that have broke their back is no ones business
LLL
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:50 pm
by rab1
my budget is around the 3k mark but i can do 90% of the work myself. was planning on hand digging the found etc and doing everything bar laying the bricks (rather not practise/learn on my own build). flat roof with felt, cutter connected to existing storm drain etc. its purely for storage of tools etc but would prefer double skin insulated but not essential.
Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:17 pm
by GB_Groundworks
theres a spec on the main site for a garage slab with toe beam......
Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 11:52 am
by Tony McC
There is! It's here
I'm going to have to get around to updating all these drawings at some stage. They keep bloody changing the nomenclature used for concrete. 
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 5:14 pm
by rab1
thanks for the input lads
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:42 pm
by r896neo
It depends what you need it for. For just general storage and you don;t mind a little damp then a single skin on a raft is fine.
If its going to store lots of expensive tools, motorbike etc then assuming your doing it yourself i would definatly go for a normal strip footing with a cavity wall. It will work out a decent bit dearer but I am a little against garages on rafts as i have been asked so many times by people how to stop water coming into the base of the wall. i.e the 2 courses below dpc
The wall to floor junction on a raft is very hard to waterproof effectively, so if you have any kind of higher ground on one side then don't go for a raft.
Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:53 pm
by rab1
The land on all sides is level which is a bonus, the one thing i dont want is damp.