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Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:23 am
by Ted
Its been sometime. As I explained a while ago I'm out of the building game but I am now advising a friend on a build...

A friend of mine is having a wooden house built in Angola. Unfortuntely, the contractor seems to have run out of money but has done a good job thus far; essentially he has built the shell (about 20m x 12m) and clad it on the outside in nice thick planks and has put on a galvanised sheet metal roof. He has also installed doors, windows and wooden floors (ie, it is watertight). The quality of work is high by Angolan standards and my friend is pleased with the work.

The contractor is now slowly doing first fix electrics, plumbing etc. But my friend has his wife and child living in a small one room shack and needs to get the house habitable as a matter of urgency. So he has conceded that the build is going to cost more to get it done quickly and he is just going to have to fork out and try and get some monies back off the contractor in due course, some way or another! Upfront payments are quite normal here and litigation is useless unless you are Angolan and (ideally) connected.

But the problem is that the contractor does not seem to have thought about how he was going to clad the inside of what is essentially just a large, single skin, garden shed (two bedrooms, a shower room and an open plan kitchen and living area)... I think he thought my friend would accept having exposed wires and tubes...

So the contractor has suggested plasterboard that is drylined for both walls and ceiling.

I have countered that as there is no cavity, plasterboard is unsuitable as when the shed gets wet, moisture may cross the cladding and structure of the building to which the plasterboard if fixed. Although it is normally blistering hot here each day, in the rainy season, when it rains it can sometimes really rain (tropical storm etc). Then as soon as it finishes, it is normally baking hot again.

I have suggested

1). using a plastic ceiling as it is cheap and water resistant and then cladding the walls in large squares of thin ply and covering the joins with thin timbers to give a rustic effect that should dry out in the heat after rain.

2). Alternatively I have suggested cement board and tiling for the walls as tiles here are very popular and easy to clean but this is an expensive option. I think he should certainly use cement board where tiles will be affixed (ie, kitchen and shower room). Cement board here is extremely expensive though, and tiles are not cheap so to the whole interior in this manner is expensive.

3). My other suggestion was to use several layers of chicken wire and render the insides of the wall and then finish the walls to a smooth finish. I guess this could be tiled too if the walls and their wire mesh reinforcement are strong enough.

4). If you are going to use plasterboard at least try and create some sort of cavity. In industrial applications metal 'furrings' are often put together into a structure to affix plasterboard ceilings to... If you used these furrings, you could affix these to the inside of the structure and fix your plasterboard to these and this might prevent moisture penetrating across to the plasterboard.

So the question here is would you go with plasterboard or would you use one of my options - if so which one? If you have other suggestions, I'd be pleased to hear them...


Ted


I will try and post up some photos of the build in due course but at the rate this build is going I have several weeks to do this.

This was it a month or two ago...

Image

It is a fair distance from my house but I'll get some more up to date photos soon.

Essentially the question is, what system would you use if you wanted to clad the inside of a beach hut in a place like Thailand or Mexico - but as a place where you are going to live for a long while...?

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:09 am
by lutonlagerlout
is there no vapour barrier behind the outside skin?
on the whole i would have said plasterboard and skim finish,as you can then paint/tile/paper as needed
I keep seeing luganda as the most expensive place in the world to live for expats
LLL

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:29 am
by GB_Groundworks
Yeah as tony said I'd have wanted it tyveking or alternative waterproof membrane under the cladding, has it been clad shiplap or tounge and grove or but jointed?

What wood was it clad in? Has it been treated and how much over hang has been left on the roof, normally they'd have a larger over hang to keep the rain off the walls.

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 6:08 pm
by Ted
I think I am going to see it on Sunday.

From what I remember, there is no Tyvek or similar incorporated under the external cladding. The external cladding is pine and it is surprisingly thick - I'll take some photos. I think this is maybe why the contractor has run out of money as he has used a heck of a lot of wood. I think the cladding has been clad shiplap but until I go and see this Sunday I cannot confirm. I think there is about 50-75 cm of roof overhang but as it is near the sea there can be wind and storms. The wood will be treated and I have advised several coats of varnish too.

I thought Tokyo had knocked Luanda to number two this year. It is pricey here but surprisingly you can also live here relativelty cheaply if you want to.

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:14 pm
by haggistini
Fcuk the damp is it lion proof?

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:57 pm
by rab1
could you not just seal the timber cladding a install a gutter system.