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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:22 pm
by London Stone Paving
We need to construct some sheds to house our saws. We are planning to build a long shed which will be split into 5 seperate bays. The roof will be at its highest point at the front and will slope backwards. We plan to build 6 pillars at the front and then put Rsj's across the span. My question is

1. What is the standard method of fixing the RSJ's to the top of the pillars? Someone has told me that thye just sit on top.

2. The roofing material will be corrugated metal sheets. What should the fall be on the roof over 6m?

Cheers

Steve

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:23 pm
by cookiewales
for wind shear would use rsj as uprights as well sat on pillars or fixed to pillars wont keep the roof on if your using box section roofing 200mm would be fine am sure giles will have a good spec :;):

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:41 pm
by lutonlagerlout
has this building been designed steve?
generally rsj s are bedded onto brickwork,then a wall plate 100 by 50 timber is coach bolted onto the top flange of the rsj
where your piers are an L shaped strap 1200 mm long is fixed onto the wooden plate with twist nails and screwed into the back of the pier every 300mm
restraining straps
also its better if RSJs can be welded together as well
regarding fall on pitched roofs the minimum is normally around 15 degrees,which would equate to 900mm in your situation
however the manafacturer's of your sheets may have a different spec
what is going from the rsj s from the front to the back to carry the purlins
when i have seen this type of construction normally there are metal rafters that carry the purlins
hope this helps
btw getting set to have the elite gold tiles installed,which way up should they go?
riven or flat?
and what to seal with?
cheers
LLL :)

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:21 pm
by digerjones
sounds like the type of shed i put up but double the bays. in my oppinion i would go for steel with timber cross members. also if you have any heat in there with tin sheets you get condinsation dripping.
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:52 pm
by rab1
This is a real (commercial business with liabilities) build. I would use steel uprights anchored into a concrete base (cube block)along with a steel skeleton and then span the roof, purling at 1600 cl and then attach roofing material of choice.

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:57 pm
by London Stone Paving
Cheers for the good advice.

I hadn't thought about using RSJ's for the uprights cookie but that mightn't be a bad idea. Would you weld the upright RSJ to the RSJ spanning across the bays?

Tony, when you say bed the RSj's onto the pillar, do you mean bed on cement?

The shed will be exactly the same as Dylans but the posts on the front would be pillars and the span would be RSJ's. We then planned to bolt a length of timber to the top of the RSj and tony said. Back posts would just be timber with then 6x2 beams joining up the 2

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:03 pm
by GB_Groundworks
you need to sit your upright rsjs onto pads(second pic 800x800x1000 deep) and bolt them in, through welded on plates. Then you either bolt together your steel most common or weld if you have a decent welder and mobile welding plant, slap who ever told you to just sit them on, then use timbers across to fit your sheets to, again bolted to the steel or you can nail them with a hilti spit nail gun.

get some clear sheets as well to get the light in. get a magnestic drill and rotobroach if drilling so much easier.

can be done cheaper with telegraph poles bolted together and cross braced. doesnt look as good.

been a lot of big sheds collapse last year with the snow loads

building our shed, came on 1 truck think it was about 8k in kit form with all metal, sheets and timber

excuse the crap images was about 10 years ago, infact i was laying block laid flat for the back retaining wall when september 11 happened

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Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1326315975

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:05 pm
by rab1
do not weld the steel, make a bolted joint to allow movement. a 6m beam can move/deflect upto 15mm on a sunny day.

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:08 pm
by GB_Groundworks
we did a rugby stand at the old sale sharks ground and the engineer had us bolt it then weld all the joints!

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:31 pm
by lutonlagerlout
we have had to bolt and weld on many occasions!
I feel a prefab building like giles would be your best bet steve,but budget is always an issue
LLL

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:33 pm
by lutonlagerlout
quick websearch found this
steel buildings
cheers LLL

Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:47 pm
by rab1
you can weld 2 bits off beam together etc but a joint has to be bolted to allow movment.

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:10 am
by London Stone Paving
Got no doubt that Giles and rab are spot on about doing it in steel/prefab. Cost is a massive consideration though, but on the same note its got to be safe and built to last, especially with forklift trucks flying around. looks like we may be back to the drawing board

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 3:12 pm
by London Stone Paving
We've had a bot of a rethink and have comne up with a compromise which should increase the strength and safety aspect without massively increasing the cost.

uprights will be RSJ's set into concrete cubes. Front spans will also be RSJ's.

Coach screw a wall plate on top of the RSJ's. Back posts will then be timber with 5 metre lengths of 8x2 joining up the RSJ's at the front with the timber posts at the back. Then going to use 4x2 for the cross sections and screw down corrugated transparent plastic onto this.

How does that sound, any further advice or ideas?

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 4:36 pm
by lutonlagerlout
5 metre lengths of 8 by 2 is your fail point steve
better to use 5 metre long glu lam beams or even 6 by 4 steels
8 by 2 over 5 M will sag sooner rather than later
we do floor joists in lofts 10 by 2 over 4.2 m and still some play in them at 400mm centres
what about this
steel building?
cheers LLL :)