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Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:35 pm
by henpecked
right, you can tell Ive got too much time on my hands 
I had a though about my garage base. Its going to be 2.4 x 7 x 3.7 (yes,its a toblerone) .I wanted to know...
1, Is this a big enough base to hold a pit?
2, What method would be the best for construction?
the base for the shed will be a raft without footings as the walls will be timber (thicker at the sides though)
Im looking at having the pit 6ft by 3ft and a depth of around 5ftish (will have to check if 6ft1" noob will fit in it)
Will put a fall in the base with a pit to catch water (then small submersible pump)
My other hobby is cars BTW
So, what do you think? Is it a goer or should I lose weight and slide under :p :p
Or! would I be better putting a slope in the base instead? Casting the slab with a form work frame around a small pit then sculpting a sloped pit from a lean mix after base has set?
HP
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 4:53 pm
by msh paving
i just did a pit last winter in a garage, used a old 200gallon steal oil tank, cut top off flush, dug hole exactsize and shuttered around top off tank , cast floor slab over and around it i put one step down into it on the end cut tank and shuttered it and cast it in slab at same time was a cheap and easy pit fully water proof, painted it white once compleated and fitted a strip light along the side MSH 
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 5:14 pm
by henpecked
Good idea, what would be the slip values of the soil if it got a bit wet? Would the sides be able to hold up ok? How deep was it?
HP
PS you go a spare one? lol
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 5:21 pm
by msh paving
the soil i dug was heavy slit getting to clay held up no probs dug it band on tight so it held in ok the weight of the concrete slab held it down, was about 5ft 6 when finished but that varaible to suit you,
i know where there is one but im in norfolk MSH
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 5:48 pm
by henpecked
Just had a look on Fleabay. They're going for 99p! Suppose if you haunt got a use , you cant get rid.
Can you explain this:
dug it band on tight
Is it a method to shore sides up? Also, if I was to use this method, would it be better to dig it open cast as to dig straight down (the shape of the box) would leave no room to get it in past the supports. Or doyou support it whist digging then remove them and drop box in? (I said I was a machine driver, should have mentioned its a telehandler )
Seen it done loads of times with trench boxes,but never took much notice tut tut 
HP
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:03 pm
by msh paving
what i ment to say was i dug it exact size and tank slid in ,because it was firm ground sides held up it was only open for 30 mins or so . i did not use anly trench sheets.......sshh dont tell anyone ,if you have lose ground you need sheats to hold it up MSH
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 8:56 pm
by henpecked
Ah! I se.
I knew you could do it,so its time dependant really. Might brace sides with ply and bit of 4x2 just whilst im in there. was on a site once in Tamworth and they'd dug a massive inspection chamber for the drainage. It was only 20 houses but this baby was huge 3m x 7m at least. the poor brickies had to go down it and build a 9" wall . The wwalls of the pit were soaked and just the day after the ground worker put in some sheets ( and I mean sheets of ply) one side just slid down. It was like a sheet of clay just detached itself, bet the canal 12 ft away didnt help any. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Posted: Wed May 06, 2009 9:34 pm
by GB_Groundworks
we have one in our garage, due to a nearby tree when we built we ended up with a 4 deep concrete footing for the workshop then pit is 7 foot deep so you can stand and work under cars and plant.
hole was excavated and concrete floor poured with a sump for a pump, then double skin of engineer brick laid in water bond with a recessed shelf on each side at 6 foot with lights in it and place to put tools etc.
then we set angle iron into the lip of the pit and use 8x4 timbers to cover it,
still get water in it though,
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1241642112
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 12:12 am
by piggy steve
Nice combs on your profile, used pits of many types over the years on many types of soil, all are damp and crap in winter if doors are open alot, or if water gets in(and it will) best ive found is some sort of ramp be it concrete sleepers, old blocks, owt to lift up the machine above you and not work in a hole but let nature (air) flow around you, I may be preaching to the converted but slope on the floor is crucial.
good luck
Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:16 am
by seanandruby
Caution always deep excavation