Page 1 of 1
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 4:22 pm
by tracyhynes
I am based in Scotland and would like a semi circular patio wall built. I have a sort of semi circle wall and patio at the mo. So have had quote for removal of exisitng wall, new foundations where necessary and a 17m wall, 80cm high re built. Have been quoted £1700 and £4000.
Is the first one reasonable? and also the first guy says use block and the 2nd says can't get a good curve with block - use brick. It will all be rendered anyway - does it matter?
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:08 pm
by Stuarty
To accuratly price a job it needs to be seen first, so i couldnt comment on the price. I laboured the building of a semi circle shaped raised bed, which was done with block and then rendered. What part of Scotland are you based in may I ask :p
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:23 pm
by tracyhynes
Just outside Glasgow. Did the semicircle look good using block? nice and smooth?
Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:51 pm
by Stuarty
It ofcourse looked a tad rough when it was just blockwork, but once it was rendered it looked great.
Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 1:16 pm
by ctyankee
Was wondering what do you mean by rendered? Does that mean using cement?
Posted: Fri Jul 28, 2006 5:54 pm
by bobhughes
Here is a comment on rendering from Tony:
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
3 - aim to apply approx 12-15mm of render, working with a float and feeding the mortar from a hawk
4 - Angle beading is best for corners - you can get it at most BMs, but make sure it's a plastic type as the steel ones used for internal plasterwork tend to rust.
5 - use a straightedge timber to level off the render once it's applied.
6 - rub-up the work with a damp sponge 12-24 hours after applying.
7 - allow at least 7 days before painting and keep it covered during that period to protect it from the elements
Good luck! "
Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:29 am
by lutonlagerlout
bobhughes
Offline
Ganger
Group: Members
Posts: 76
Joined: Nov. 2004
Posted: 28 July 2006,17:54 QUOTE
Here is a comment on rendering from Tony:
"If there's one job I hate doing, it's rendering. I'd rather unblock sewers with my bare hands than have to render a wall, but here's my tips, for what they're worth....
1 - make sure the mix incorporates a good plasticiser and/or a bonding agent, such as PVA
2 - use a building sand and a mix that's around 6:1
surely this should be sharp sand for rendering??
regards tony ???
Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:38 am
by lutonlagerlout
well, done in brick your looking at about 2000 bricks so about £3-4000
is right depending on access and how much spoil has to be removed (where i live skips now cost the eye watering £185 each for 6 yd)
as for block well if you live in the very exposed part of scotland (my mum is from greenock) sometimes concrete block rendered is a better option
i would say that both quotes are for real and what you should go for is personal recommendation from someone who has had work done by these contractors
brick is obviously more aesthetic but is it suitable for your loctaion?
also the thing about redoing the foundation where necessary ,this is way to vague.
either they grub it all out or leave it ,otherwise you will be charged for work that doesnt happen
hope this helps
tony
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:51 pm
by Ted
"surely this should be sharp sand for rendering??"
I agree - Fine sharp (or plastering sand).
I would also suggest doing it in two coats - a scratch coat and a finish coat.
Posted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:39 pm
by Mark B
a scratch coat will be needed before the float coat / top coat is put on, use a 3:1 render mix for both and use a waterprofer in the scratch coat mix. just apply the scratch coat and scratch with many lines horizontaly and leave to set for a few days before going on with the top coat
mark.
