Page 1 of 1
Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 6:38 pm
by steve r
'bout time the Reichskinder looked after their old dad.
Hope Mrs T is ok now.
About 8 months ago I installed a 2.4 m wide 5 bar gate.
The 150mm posts were set in concrete 450mm square x 800mm deep. Problem now is the end of the gate has dropped by 10mm.This appeared to have happened in the first 4 months and has not dropped any further.
Question is I have to install another gate which is going to be 2.6m wide with the same size posts, do you think the hole size as before is big enough to support it?
Thanks Regards
Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:01 pm
by dig dug dan
I take it it was a wooden gate?
I install these all the time, and there are some measures you can take to stop this happening again.
Firstly, dont use the hooks that bang into the post. They split it, and sag later on. They cannot be adjusted either.
Use the hanger on plates. They come woth four pre drilled holes that will take a coach screw. This enables you to position them exactly where you want them. If you make an error, you can correct it. you cant with the hooks to drive!!
Also, alway fit an adjustable hanging hinge to the gate.
What this is is a long threaded bolt with the gate eye welded on the end. You drill a hole through the gate and slide this bolt in, clamping either side with a special H section washer. Then either side of that, there is a large nut.
When you hang the gate, to level it, all you do is crank the nut nearest the post (slackening off the other first) to raise the end of the gate, or vice versa to lower it. When leve, tighten both nuts.
If the gate ever sinks, you can easily adjust it.
I assume your hinges and gate hooks are not adjustable as above?
I think the way you are putting these posts in is fine. Any bigger, and I would use 7x7 for the hanging post. The slam post can be 6 x 6.
I hope this helps!!
If you need any more information on the gate fittings, I have pictures
Regards
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:41 am
by Tool
Dan is right there u need to be able to adjust the hinges to stop the droping.
Hey dan been using a T 500 on a job i have been doing great little machine but a bit dodgy when lifting into skips, the skips have to be on level ground if not you can tip the machine.
I have been filling a skip a day by myself, gone are the days of the wheel barrow lol
Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:39 pm
by steve r
Thanks for your reply Dan
The hardware sounds as you describe, but the bottom pin is a knock in one. I measured it and checked and double checked before drilling the hole to fit because as you say, once in that’s it.
The reason for my concern is that the sag will continue, although 10mm at the end of the gate probably doesn’t represent much movement of the post.
I will make the next holes for the next gate the same size.
I installed a gate of the same size about 15 years ago and the post has leant over so much that all the adjustment has been used up and I now have to take it out and re concrete the posts.
I found this site very useful in selecting the hardware: - http://www.elizatinsley.co.uk/storefinder.php
Hopefully this is a picture of the gate: - http://imagehost.darkernet.co.uk/i/Gate.jpg
I cleared up some old pig sties for a neighbour last month and presented them with an enormous pile of hardcore. They asked me what they could do with it. I told them I knew of a man with a machine that would make it into a very nice pile crushed concrete.
You may get a call from deepest Essex later in the year.
Regards
Steve
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 1:23 pm
by dig dug dan
Steve
I note from your picture that you have used the adjustable bottom hinge.
I also notice you have hung the gate between the posts.
If you can, try to hang behind, as this will help stop the sag, as it puts different forces on the posts.
I cannot understand why you have had such a problem with this. the only answer is the strenght of the concrete round the posts.
Thanks for the crusher referall. I hope they some back to me.
Its not till you use one for the first time, that you can see its benefit. I have relatives in essex too!
regards
Daniel
Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:24 pm
by steve r
Hi Daniel
The concrete mix was a generous 8:1.
The posts had to be installed on the outside of the paving kerbs, and they would have been too far apart to mount the gate on the back.
The next gate will be mounted on the side as I need to fit a spring latch to the gate.
Our horses have worked out how to open all the other catches I’ve fitted, so hopefully I’ll beat them this time.
Regards
Steve
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 5:03 pm
by dig dug dan
Steve
I think personally that the mix is a little lean.
I would recommend 4:1 on this type of application. There is a lot of tension when the gate is hung, and swung open. plus you always get people who climb over the gate and add more weight to it!!
you can always add rubble as you fill the hole up too.
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 5:25 pm
by Tony McC
While there's nowt wriong with using a 4:1 mix (ST4) I can't see what great advantage it confers over a ST1 mix (1:3:6) for this sort of application. The concrete is there to hold the post in place by adding weight/mass and to fill the gap between the ground and the post.
Fairy nuff: if it was a weak mix, there's a risk that the presure and leveraghe on the post carrying the gate could crack the concrete, but I can't imagine that happening with 150mm thickness of ST1, unless it was poorly compacted when placed (and I know Steve isn't the sort of bloke to skimp on compacting the concrete!)
I'd hazard a guess that there's more risk of the post and haunch moving "en masse" within the ground, or the ground settling slightly, or, as previously discussed, the hinges and their fastenings moving on the post, that an 8:1 concrete being too weak.
Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 6:57 pm
by ABILITY
Are you sure its the post that has moved.
10mm drop at end of gate is not alot, could easily be sag in the gate itself, as the wood drys out, a bit of give is usual.
Thats why you have adjustable hinges to take it up and keep it opening smoothly.
We often end up adjusting gates while on jobs, we keep a big adjustable spanner in tool box for this. Customers think it is great not to have to struggle each time they open them.
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:41 pm
by danensis
Rather than using all the concrete around the post, another option is to lay a strip between the hinge post and the slamming post. This creates a sort of H shape with the strip in compression hoilding the post upright.
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 9:47 pm
by steve r
Thanks for all the replies.
My original question was: - " do you think the hole size as before is big enough to support the gate?"
As the general concensus was yes and the mix ok the new posts were installed on saturday, with the gate going on next weekend.
(Thats an interesting idea danensis but would have used on awful lot of conrete, but I get the principle)
Regards Steve
Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:07 pm
by Tony McC
So? Has it falled over yet? :p
Posted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:40 pm
by steve r
Nope, but the haybags haven't been scratching their bums on it yet.
Have got yet more pics to send to you.
Latest project is yet more post and rail fencing.
When will I get time to finish my drive up to our stables?
Posted: Wed May 04, 2005 7:47 pm
by Tony McC
The fine weather is about to start, and the light nights are here for the next couple of months - if you can stay away from the boozer, it's surprising how much can be achieved in a few evenings and weekends! :p
