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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:27 pm
by marsaday
I am relocating the bathroom to the front of the property and know we have a sewer running through our front gardens 1.7m away from the properties (in a block of 6 terraces).
The neighbours manhole is 90cm deep and the pipe is glazed 6".
I have spoken to yorks water and i need to pay £131 to tap into the system and need to fill in a form saying what i am going to do.
So i need some help on exactly how to do it.
I plan on using a manhole system which will have on the base a 6" inlet and outlet to take the current sewer and then a branch for my 4" soil pipe.
Do i need to set this base on a concrete bed ?
This unit will have to fit the flow of the current sewer and so it will not be level. How do i add sections to this base and level it up at the same time ?
I have to use a flexible connection to each end of the cut sewer, so as i understand it i will add two length each side for the 6" stuff and have these about 60cm long. These plug into the base unit and i attach the flexible couplers to these and the clay sewer.
Any help is really appreciated.
Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:38 pm
by seanandruby
here
There you go mars, read this and it will help you to 'work,rest and play' :;):
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:54 am
by marsaday
Yes thank you. I found it after my post.
All seems straight forward, but i am a bit concerned about the land sloping away. We are not on flat land, rather a very gentle hill. So i am wondering if i will be able to tee in one of these plastic forms. If not i may just go without a manhole because i dont have to do one. My neighbours manhole will be 6m down the line you see.
ps. Can i buy a form with only a 6" in and outlet running straight through, with one branch in 4" for the new soil pipe connection. Or do i have to buy a multiple unit ?
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:19 am
by seanandruby
Well just use an oblique junction then. The lateral ends on a manhole will have ends on them so you just take out the end you will be going to use. Don't worry about the sloping ground you'll get over that with brickwork if need be.
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 11:03 am
by marsaday
Ok. So use the formed section and then build a brick work manhole cover instead of using the plastic risers.
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:32 pm
by dig dug dan
Forgive my ignorance, but if you are tapping into a sewer that runs through your front gardens, why do you have to pay? Just do it and say nothing
Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 5:25 pm
by marsaday
Well i am moving the bathroom from downstairs up to the first floor plus moving a wall downstairs. Build control will be involved. I have also spoken to yorks water about this and there is a £131 charge to tap into the sewer.
I will meet BC next week on site to discuss various things and will see if they say i need to let the water comp know.
Longer term i dont want to have anything over this house which may negate a sale.
Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 6:43 pm
by marsaday
I met with the water rep this week and i dont need to make a manhole, so just need to add in a junction.
I have fully uncovered the pipe in the ground and it isnt covered in cement and all is ok with it, apart from the fact that from collar to collar it is pretty short.
I have a pic, but not sure how to post it on here.
I think there isnt room to add a new clay junction and two flexible couplers at each end.
So does anyone know if i could just cut out a small section and fit a flexible tee coupler instead?
Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:50 pm
by msh paving
you dont have to go from collar to collar, cut it to fit with a disc cutter where needed cut it over size and use a picece off 110mm plastic underground pipe to make up exact size , use clay to plastic rubber adaptors and a standard 110mm plastic underground fitting. MSH 
Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:48 pm
by marsaday
Ok, i understand, but what if the water company is insisting on using clay. Apparently when the clay buts up to the PVC pipe there is a difference in internal diameter so there is a lip formed. This means the flow can be slightly impeded. I would prefer to use plastic. Has anyone else had the same problem ? I bet they dont make official contractors do it in clay, just because i am a civilian.
Posted: Sat Aug 31, 2013 11:15 pm
by digerjones
get a 6'' clay y with a 4'' branch coming off it. cut it in half, cut the main same size as y, dig where you have removed the bit of main and under the 2 ends of main. put some concrete in dug out area and put y in place. come off branch with new line and build up brick work to ground level. hope this makes sence and proberly your cheapest method if your doing it your self.
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:04 am
by seanandruby
get some Flexseal stepped adjustable collars, you may have to dig out along the line more to accomadate a y plus length of pipe. you'll probably need 2 ac6000 clay to plastic Fexseal will tell you. they are about £15 each, so cheap really.
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:06 am
by marsaday
Yes it all makes sense, thanks for info.
I have a small angle grinder and am wondering if this will be enough to cut the pipe ?
The water bloke said i dont need to make a chamber, just provide rodding provision on the stack, which is 1m back towards the house.
Do you guys think i should build a chamber or not.
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:22 pm
by seanandruby
The choice is yours mars. What materials do you actually have?
Are you planning on putting a patio in place? If so I'd go for the oblique junction. Would you be able to brick up a chamber, if a pot, or ic not practical and bench it up?