Page 1 of 1
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:28 pm
by rodw
I am installing a patio and I've bought 8 metres of OSMA linear drain ( see <http://co-uk.wavin.com/master/master.js ... t_detail_I>).
I want to connect it to an existing surface water drain. I can see that there are knock out sections in the OSMA drain section but what connectors can I use to join to it?
Also, I've found that the existing plastic pipe is just laid in soil. Should I dig it out and lay 10mm gravel around it before putting my hardcore and patio over the top or should I just put something over it to protect it? If so - what would work?
thanks
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:35 pm
by msh paving
standard brown underground pipe slide over the knockout sections no coupling required,,there is no need to did it out and gravel round it, as long as its fully surported with clean soil no stony lumps,it would not hurt to put 50mm of pea gravel over the top so the sub base is off it, MSH 
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:40 pm
by topgrafter2007
defo need to surround your underground pipe in pipe bedding/pea gravel/10mm stone. there are connectors available but connecting two different makes of drainage together more often is a pain as there supposed to be compatible???? but never seem to be. thats why alot of guys bodge the connections!
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:46 pm
by topgrafter2007
was typing same time as you MSH sounds like i was avin dig at you! :laugh: but wasnt :;):
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:50 pm
by msh paving
i beg to differ on the connection to the channel drain, there is no room for a collar the pipe just slips over the knock out, i laid 10 last week in a driveway,if the existing pipe is laid in soil there is very little point in removing soil and rebedding as it will be firm enough if its been in a while,the osma tecnical spec states clean bedding material with no rocks and sharp bits ,it up to you but there is little point in redoing it so long as its bedded firm.
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:51 pm
by msh paving
ok no prob's MSH
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:56 pm
by rodw
Hi,
thanks for the info but I dont understand what you means by pipe slides over knock out section. The knock out section is at the bottom of the channel so how does that work? Surely there must be some connector to take the water off to the old pipe?
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:04 pm
by msh paving
iff you knock out the centre piece. ok step one, then you slide a piece off 110mm pipe over the spigot that is left and into a 90deg. bend so you can use a T or a Y to connent into existing line any question pm me and ill give you a ring MSH
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:05 pm
by topgrafter2007
if your open to bodge it methods. some lads will drill out 50mm section at bottom of drain then use plastic dowm spout and fittings to connect to existing drain/gully then encase in concrete to protect it. it aint the right way but done properly it does work, :;):
Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:32 pm
by Dave_L
Knock the round section out (four careful cuts with a power saw and then gently tap the cut section out and then fit the drain channel on a concrete base, bringing the short 90 bend up to the underside of the cut out section.
If that makes sense!
Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:46 pm
by GB_Groundworks
http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain06.htm
main page has it all on there, halfway down explains it all
gi
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 2:23 am
by TazMan
Continuing this thread (and having read the whole site and searched through the forums)...
How is a linear channel 4m long, with a 110/100mm hole, connect to an osma bottle gully with a 160mm connection opening at top.
Situation is, 4 meter linear channel going widthways across patio doors. At one corner is the bottle gully. The builder doesn't know how to connect the two. I found a converter/adapter/coupler, but the levels are out i.e. bottle gully too high apparently.
My builder says the existing water in the gully determines the water level, so it can't be lowered (btw, all remedial work in specification to fix levels and drainage and pave, after previous cowboy).
I'm very dubious about guy now, as he is going back on changing fall to away from patio doors as previously agreed. I don't want to lose any more money, and want a job done right.
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:41 am
by msh paving
you would not lay it over a gully like that as it would not make a water tight seal and its not the way to do it anyway,unless you are connecting to a foul system which is not permitted any way you don't need a trap , just a 90 bend under the channel to take the pipe,as for the gully water determines the level what a load of bovine poo MSH
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:09 am
by TazMan
Hi MSH Paving
It's surface water from patio. I've been up since 6am emptying out the silt/soil from the gully. 2 bucket loads of water and a quarter bucket of silt/rubble. But water still not draining out. Though i can hear sometimes a far away stream trickle. I couldn't feel an outlet hole in the gully, or is that because of the silt trap?
I understand the 90 bend from the bottom outlet: http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain06.htm .
What about rodding access though? Or would that be from above the 90 bend outlet on the linear SLOT channel?
Osma gave an adapter from their 160 diameter gully to 110mm hole to connect to the linear channel which appears to make it water tight. If that's the case, could I have the square grill access above the gully and seated on the channel? The channel comes with slot grill and a square grill (inspection cover for access).
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:40 pm
by seanandruby
If you bring it up to your gully you could drill into the side of it, as long as you are'nt compromising the trap. your invert needs to be above the water level in the gully. You can seal the ends and joints.