The Brew Cabin

Posted: **Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:10 am**

Hi,

First - thanks for all the good advice I read on this site about preparing the ground and laying the patio. It's good to read what people are doing and what actually works.

Having said that, I clearly still have a problem. Let me describe it because I am sure this is something others have come across.

I had a garden sloping down to the back of the house. I have laid a patio of approx 8m x 3.5m along the rear of the house along with a linear drain about 8 inches from the rear wall to deal with any volume of water that comes off the patio. That works a treat. The slabs I used a bl***y huge (900 x 600) and weigh a ton by the way - look terrific but my god what an effort to work them!

I think the slab size has contributed to my problem to be honest because of the variation you get in thickness and my not laying it at the right level has created one spot on the patio that won't drain. It's right away from the linear drain so I can't get the water off in to that. The problem seems to be made worse because 1 slab is down in one corner relative to it's neighbours (variation in thickness and level come to play here). Any idea how to drain just this one area without lifting loads of slabs?

I had thought about lifting the one in question to adjust it's level and trying to put some kind of limited soak away underneath it. Anybody got any suggestions?

Thanks,

Rod

Posted: **Tue Oct 20, 2009 10:39 am**

Assuming this is not a lot of water - and this IS a compromise solution, is if your grouting width between the 2 slabs is around 20mm, chop this out in the shortest drain away direction, and insert 20mm garden hose/plastic conduit pipe to take the water away. Either drill a neat 20mm hole where the water goes down, or fit the smallest plastic basin outlet you can find. Clean the drain point regularly.

Posted: **Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:16 pm**

One bodge-lite solution I've installed on a patio with a similar solution involved inserting a 400mm length of 12mm dia copper pipe into the joint at the troublesome low spot. The pipe was drilled to create a series of 3mm holes along the lower 300mm and then the 'bottom' end was hammered to form a chisel shape.

The rather pathetic mortar was flicked out of the joint, and then the pipe-contraption was driven in until it was just below the top of the flags. The pipe was then filled with 6mm clean grit and the pointing around the pipe opening replaced.

It does work, after a fashion, even 10 years later, although it is a bit slow in heavy rain.

Posted: **Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:48 pm**

not sure i have come across 12 mm copper tony? normally 15 or 22 mm,
cant the 1 flag be lifted rod and replaced with a better one?
of even turned 180 deg. ??
a picture would be handy
cheers LLL

Posted: **Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:53 pm**

Hi,

I will try to get a picture. I could cut the grout out and lift the flag but its a bit of a sod really. They are very heavy and I dont want to disturb all the others. Anyway, I will try to get a picture to see if that helps.

Thanks for answers so far.

Rod

The Brew Cabin

Clearing standing water on a patio - Draining one area of standing water on a