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Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:18 pm
by Ian C
Tony,

I have used your “expert� advice to help resolve a number of drainage problems with excellent results and I am hoping that you will be able to help with my current problem.

I am having my garage extended (rebuilt) to include a workshop and an inspection pit (to inspect the undersides of vehicles not drains!). The excavation of the pit (on 28th Nov.) revealed a very heavy clay soil all the way to the bottom (1,800mm) which was excellent for retaining a clean excavation but had other issues. The pit remained dry for a couple of days and was then covered while other building work went on. The weather during December was extremely wet and when the covers came off the excavation it was no surprise to find about 300 – 400mm of water in the bottom. The water was pumped out and the substrate for the concrete floor was laid. The next day the water appeared to have returned to the level of the top of the substrate, approx. 300mm above the clay bottom of the excavation. A hole was drilled in the centre of the pit in an attempt to break through the clay into a permeable layer to act as a drain for the excavation. The hole was abandoned after drilling through approx. 1,500mm of very heavy clay (total depth approx. 3,200mm) and the hole has now filled with water to a level about 10 – 20mm below the top of the substrate.

My belief is that when the pit was originally excavated (Nov’06) the water table was below the bottom of the pit but owing to the severe weather, during December and early January, has now risen to be approx. 300mm above the original excavated depth. Is this feasible / realistic?

Have you any suggestions as to how we might proceed with establishing a solid floor on which to lay the dense concrete blocks to form the pit. We are obviously unhappy with attempting to lay concrete on what is a flooded and potentially unstable sub base.

Any help or advice would be most welcome.

Thank you again for the invaluable help to date.

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:59 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i am no expert on pits but have done a couple, 1 in december funny enough
we dug the hole 2.9m by 1.8 m by 2.0m deep then immediately lay a 150 mm concrete base
we then laid 450by 225 by 150 dense concret blocks flat up to 75 mm below FFL (including step irons at both ends)
after xmas on my return to work there was an inch of water in the bottom which may have blown in under the garage door or may have penetrated the walls
so we dried it out with lime,cleaned it out and applied on consecutive days 3 coats of bitumen paint to a height of 225m
then back filled with shingle and laid the garage oversite
my main concern was that the drive sloped towards the garage ,so i installed a linear drain in front of the garage
so far no problems
could you not install a big pond liner or something like 6 m by 6m ,cast your foundation on this ,then build the walls
theoretically the pit would be waterproof
hope this helps
LLL :)
ps we couldn't do the liner because we had to have the pit shored up as it was an existing garage

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 7:22 am
by Tony McC
In theory, if you construct a solid concrete base and then build the walls in CMUs with either a DPM or a drainage composite behind them, that should do the trick.

When it comes to casting the floor, dig a sump and bale out as much of the water as poss. Line the whole of the hole with the DPM, so that it comes up and over the floor level. Place concrete and, if possible, lay starter course of CMUs directly onto plastic concrete.

Once the base is firm enough (48 hours) build up the CMUs to the required level. Make sure the DPM or drainage composite is neatly aligned behind the CMUs and then, when the mortar has had a couple of days to cure, backfill with lean-mix or pea-gravel to within 200mm of FFL, which leaves enough depth for the replacement floor.

All this assumes the dimensions of the pit don't exceed 20m² and that the thickness of the base is at least 0.033' times as thick as the longest dimension.

Personally, when there's a risk of water infiltration, I like to use an all-concrete c-i-s solution by casting mesh and starter bars into the base and then using formwork to mould the pit walls. As long as the construction joint is cleaned and primed properly, this type of construction is better able to withstand infiltrations than CMUs. However, the scenario you describe, with just 300mm or so of water in the base is not what I'd consider to be a serious problem, so the CMUs should be fine.

Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:00 pm
by Ian C
Many thanks for replies and advice to date.

The main concern is the long term effect of laying the concrete onto a wet and spongy sub base that was laid on what, at the time, was the dry base of the excavation.

The sub base is crushed dolomite (locally called “dolly�) and was laid to a depth of about 200 – 300mm. The current level of the water table appears to be a few mms under the top of the sub base.

I have taken Tony’s advice and pumped then bailed out the sump hole and the water level in the sump is now 400mm below the top of the dolly. The question is how dry and firm must the sub base be in order to ensure that the floor slab will be solid and stable in the long term.

Thanks again for any advice or suggestions.

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 1:30 pm
by Tony McC
The sub-base doesn't need to be dry, but it does need to be firm. The rise and fall of the water table will, perversely, halp consolidate the sub-base over time and make for a better construction. For now, all you can do is compact as best you can, possinbly using a rampactor, and then get the concrete base in place.

Don't worry too much about that sub-base. No matter how wet it is, it will be a better sub-layer than the sub-grade that was there previously.

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:37 am
by seanandruby
all concrete sounds the best option. with a kicker and starter bars above the water line. scabble the tops of the kicker and glue some hydratight before doing the walls. a thick gauge membrane should do the job. normally i would back blind it but that is not necessary on a small project. good luck.

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:37 am
by lutonlagerlout
i will take a piccy of the concrete block variety for your perusal ,so far so good
LLL