First Post!
I have just about finished converting my cellar into a utility room but have made a bit of a c0ck up
When the house was renovated / extended the builder installed a large diameter pipe from the cellar, under the kitchen (solid floor) to an air brick in the kitchen wall to provide ventilation. I am running the outlet of the Sanivite pump (32mm plastic) through this to the drain. However due to my mistake in measuring.............when I knocked out the air brick I found this
The pipe is actually 8 inches lower than I thought (How embarassing!)
The inspection cover is close by
As the outlet pipe is now too low to go into the existing drain what can I do to be saved??
Great site by the way!
Howard
New connection to drain - My bad
-
- Posts: 1136
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 9:25 am
- Location: North West
Hard to tell from here but eight inch below the air-brick will be ground level won`t it.
Can`t you core drill through into the air vent and let the pump lift the waste into the gully via a couple of bends, you will have to check the installation bumpth about number of bends allowed and how this will affect the total lift capacity.
If not you are looking at an excavation and new branch onto the existing drainage system, but you will still have to core-drill thru to your pipe.
Edited By flowjoe on 1144345300
Can`t you core drill through into the air vent and let the pump lift the waste into the gully via a couple of bends, you will have to check the installation bumpth about number of bends allowed and how this will affect the total lift capacity.
If not you are looking at an excavation and new branch onto the existing drainage system, but you will still have to core-drill thru to your pipe.
Edited By flowjoe on 1144345300
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:38 am
- Location: (deep in the wilds of) Leicestershire
Thanks for the reply.
Yes or a couple of inches below.
All the vertical lift has to be at the pump end.
It does look like I will have to put in a new branch into the existing drain and thats where my experience ends........ I've looked at the Marley catalogue on line, what is the way to go? Should I position the new gully/trap below ground level and form the opening at ground level in brick/mortar or is there a fitting available to do this? What should I use to connect into the existing drain?
eight inch below the air-brick will be ground level won`t it
Yes or a couple of inches below.
let the pump lift the waste into the gully
All the vertical lift has to be at the pump end.
It does look like I will have to put in a new branch into the existing drain and thats where my experience ends........ I've looked at the Marley catalogue on line, what is the way to go? Should I position the new gully/trap below ground level and form the opening at ground level in brick/mortar or is there a fitting available to do this? What should I use to connect into the existing drain?
Retired Computer Engineer.
Why pay someone to do something when you can learn how to do it yourself?
Why pay someone to do something when you can learn how to do it yourself?
-
- Posts: 1136
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 9:25 am
- Location: North West
There are pages within the main site showing how to connect a new junction into an existing section of pipe work.
I would then run a branchline across to the air brick (approx) and fit a back inlet gully, this means that the gully has a water trap to stop smells venting from the main system, but it also has a 100mm inlet higher than the water level but below ground level (approx 150mm), You can then get an insert/boss fitting to connect the 32mm to the 100mm inlet that will remain water and air tight.
Scroll down the following page and you will find the type of gully and boss fitting required.
http://www.fascias.com/en-gb/dept_48.html
Tony may have aready covered this on the drainage pages
I would then run a branchline across to the air brick (approx) and fit a back inlet gully, this means that the gully has a water trap to stop smells venting from the main system, but it also has a 100mm inlet higher than the water level but below ground level (approx 150mm), You can then get an insert/boss fitting to connect the 32mm to the 100mm inlet that will remain water and air tight.
Scroll down the following page and you will find the type of gully and boss fitting required.
http://www.fascias.com/en-gb/dept_48.html
Tony may have aready covered this on the drainage pages
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:38 am
- Location: (deep in the wilds of) Leicestershire
Here is where I'm up to.......The yellow blob indicates where the 32mm pipe will come out.
As you can see space is limited and there is not enough room for a back inlet gully.
Would it be practical to replace the bend with a "T" Junction and an adapter ?? If I use a universal adapter does it give some flexibility for the angle as the pipe enters it?
Retired Computer Engineer.
Why pay someone to do something when you can learn how to do it yourself?
Why pay someone to do something when you can learn how to do it yourself?
-
- Posts: 1136
- Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 9:25 am
- Location: North West
Looks like a nice soft sub-soil you are playing in roadster :laugh:
You will have to follow the pipe work for at least 500mm if not more, it looks as though it is bending and dropping at the same time which will give you more room to play in.
Why don`t you remove the existing gully pot, install a back inlet gully as required and then plumb your kitchen waste and rainwater downspout into the new back inlet gully.
You will have to follow the pipe work for at least 500mm if not more, it looks as though it is bending and dropping at the same time which will give you more room to play in.
Why don`t you remove the existing gully pot, install a back inlet gully as required and then plumb your kitchen waste and rainwater downspout into the new back inlet gully.
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:38 am
- Location: (deep in the wilds of) Leicestershire