The Brew Cabin

Posted: **Sun Nov 20, 2005 3:47 pm**

Hi

I'm looking for advice on a cracked socketed clayware pipe in my garden.

Firstly the drainage is for a rain water drain that comes down a plastic pipe from my gutter. The ground has been constantly wet and the adjacent wall has started to become damp inside.

The plastic pipe dropped into a clay elbow joint under ground that connected to a socketed clayware pipe.

I have dug and found the elbow is cracked and also the end of the first section of the clay pipe.

The clay pipe is around 150 mm dia and is a 2-3 foot length. The joint to the rest of the drain is sound and the next socket seems to have a mortar joint.

My question is could I fit a plastic pipe and elbow to this broken section. I could probably get a pipe cutter to square the end. Any recommendations on what to use and how to join would be appreciated.

If not I need to replaced the clayware. I am worried about breaking the socket as has been sealed with mortar as this would result in extensive problems to dig up the next section of pipe.

Any help or advice is much appreciated. Also any advice on how to treat my now porous wall.

Thank you

bub

Posted: **Sun Nov 20, 2005 5:07 pm**

So: you have a downpipe from the gutter that feeds into a clayware rest bend. The rest bend and the first connecting pipe are cracked. Is that correct?

The simplest fix is to excavate to expose the rest bend, the cracked pipe, and the first bit of the second pipe that has an intact mortared collar. Use a power saw to slice through the second pipe about 30mm behind the collar. Remove the collar, the first pipe and the rest bend and get shut.

Slide an adaptor coupling onto the exposed end of the second pipe and fasten into place. Use new plasticware pipes and fittings to replace the pipe and rest bend removed earlier. I'm not sure whether the previous set-up relied on a direct connection to the rest bend, but it might be worth considering using a gully rather than a direct connect rest bend.

Once you have the broken pipes replaced, the ground, and your wall, will gradually dry out naturally. It might take 12 months, but there's no real advantage in trying to accelerate it by using heat.

Posted: **Sun Nov 20, 2005 5:51 pm**

Hi Tony

Thank you for your reply. It looks the best option to cut and square off the pipe as you suggest and fit an adaptor coupling. The system seemed to be a direct connection that cracked and blocked with soil.

Your advice on a gully system sounds good. Would a hopper connected to a rest bend be sufficient. Something like the rest bend and hopper here: http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain10.html

I don't really have space underground for a trap but if totally necessary I could accomodate.

Also any advice on the best adaptor coupling to use for my clay to plastic. I've seen hepsleeve, super sleeve, eazisleeve ones and also couplings with internal pipes.

Thanks for your advice.

regards

bub

Posted: **Mon Nov 21, 2005 12:58 am**

Hopper and rest bend is fine.

Best adaptor - you may not have much of a choice, as most BMs stock one brand only, so it's take it or leave it. If the clay pipe can be measured, it may be possible to get a 'direct adaptor', one that links, say, 4 inch clayware to 110mm uPVC, but if there's any doubt, an adjustable coupling, the sort that relies on jubilee clips to tighten-up the slack, would be a better choice.

The Brew Cabin

Clayware joint advice