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Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 3:25 pm
by sy76uk
I've got a job coming up where I'll be using the rustic colour and am planning on laying them in courses half bond 400x 800.
In the project pack b you get 400x400, 800x400 and 800x800 sizes.
I'll be enquiring about single size 400x800 packs but if I can't get them the Idea is to cut the 800x800's through the centre.
Trouble is I've never used them and although I'm good at cutting straight I'm worried about the flags chipping.
Thoughts?
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 4:09 pm
by mickg
buy the red 10 landscaper blades, Marshalls endorse it and I am told there are no issues when cutting the symphony paving
Red 10 Landscaper Blade
Don't know if you have seen it but Marshalls have made a video of the paving being laid
Symphony Vitrified paving
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 4:56 pm
by sy76uk
Thanks Mick, seen the vid.
Have you laid any yourself yet?
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 5:04 pm
by mickg
no but I have 3 large jobs to lay using the symphony paving in the next few months, looking forward to it
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 5:13 pm
by sy76uk
I'll look forward to seeing the pictures Mick.
My next job is the symphony rustic and I'm just in the middle of pricing one up.
There are around 80m2 on each and I'm also looking forward to it.
I'll be sure to get one of the red blades as judging by the video it cut the tile/flag well without chipping the cut line and that was my main concern.
Posted: Sun May 10, 2015 5:19 pm
by mickg
I bought 6 of the Red 10 Landscaper blades more than 12 months ago and I have still got 3 in my garage and both TS410's saws have one on with lots of diamond still showing
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:04 pm
by sy76uk
Just to let you know Mick I got hold of Paul Dennis who is our regional assesser from Marshalls today to find out how some of the other lads have been getting on cutting the vitrified paving and he reckons there struggling.
It's been as I suspected and the cut line is chipping. Apparently the best way found so far is to put masking tape on the cut line then use a tile blade on a 4" grinder to start the cut and a cut off saw to finish.
His words were that it sounds like a ball ache but it has produced the best results so far.
He also said that marshalls are looking into the best blade to use and are considering supplying one for each project.
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:11 pm
by mickg
Thats news to me but i will ask the installers in my area who have laid it a few time
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 7:36 pm
by sy76uk
Good idea, let me know what they say.
Another thing he told me is that it's more visible on the darker colours.
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:12 pm
by mickg
had a reply from one guy, he did say some of the paving did chip but not all of them
I mentioned using a continuous blade to my assessor like what you would use to cut tiles and was told its not necessary hence my comment above about using the red 10 blade, I also spoke to the guys in charge of the blades and symphony paving at the Marshalls national awards and was advised they are the correct blades
we have an array of tools including bench saws and hand held to carry out both wet and dry cutting and different saw blades, over the next few weeks I will experiment with different blades and saws and see what the results are
Posted: Mon May 11, 2015 8:38 pm
by sy76uk
be sure to let us know how you get on Mick.
Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 8:28 pm
by lemoncurd1702
Installing the symphony buff at the moment Simon, which is the same manufacturer as your Rustic. Bit of a learning curve to say the least.
Have a 350mm tile blade on a water fed masonry bench saw, works fine. Same blade on a 9 inch grinder Pah, it really needs water, the blades overheat big time on this stuff
Hired a stihl with a turbo edged blade ( Spectrum ) which cuts fine wet or dry with minimal spalling (you'd need to get on your hands and knees and be very critical).
Used a 9inch version of same blade to cut the curves, was ok but you need someone trickling water over the blade.
Found that by cutting the paving in situ, on it's mortar bed the best. Cut deep through the paving and into the bed, the soft mortar keeps the blade keen edged, wares the blade quite rapid though.
One other thing.
The instarmac primer is a must, it sticks like the proverbial. It is usable for longer than stated and goes further. Do not use the amount of water stated or you'll end up with piss.
A little bit of water and quarter bag will see you through the day.
Absoulutely stunning looking product and is the future of paving. Not in any rush to lay more though and looking forward to laying some riven:D
Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 9:00 pm
by lutonlagerlout
we had a similar issue with some big porcelain tiles 900 by 300
anyway no matterwhat the tiler used to cut their were tiny white spall marks on the edge of the cut
because the tiles were grey/black we used a smoke coloured silicon to get over this
effectively vitrified paving is just chunky tiles
the borders between tiling and paving is getting blurred as flags get thinner and tiles get bigger
in fact our tiler has used tiles bigger and thicker than standard calibrated flags now
LLL
Posted: Sun May 17, 2015 9:11 am
by lemoncurd1702
Some images of the cut symphony using a continuous rim turbo edged blade.
Slight spalling but hardly noticeable, maybe a problem on the darker shades though.
Posted: Sun May 17, 2015 9:25 am
by mickg
I spoke to Trevor Knight from Marshalls a few days ago and cutting the symphony is similar to cutting glass you are bound to get some chips and slight spalling due to it being so hard