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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:08 pm
by segovia
Hi
I have had some flags replaced with Indian stone in an area which steps down into the garden. The stone overlaps a timber fascia which is cosmetic. The stone overlaps about 15 - 20 mm - My question is, am I creating a vulnerable area which is likely to shear through wear and tear? I am contemplating a cobble set edge around the lip which would mean more work, advice would be appreciated or am I worrying unnecessarily ?
PS - why can't I add pictures to my post ?
Segovia Pictures here
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:23 pm
by Carberry
Photos here:
Shouldn't cause any problems.
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:33 pm
by mickavalon
Jeez who did that??:D
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:59 pm
by segovia
mickavalon wrote:Jeez who did that??:D
Why, do you see something wrong with it?
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:01 pm
by segovia
Carberry wrote:Photos here:
Shouldn't cause any problems.
Thanks for posting the pics
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:35 pm
by Pablo
The flags that are bedded onto the wood will not stay there long you can't get rigid mortar to stick to wood that is constantly swelling and shrinking. As finishes go it's also very nasty to look at the only way you can do that well is if the paving is set flush inside the wood so it becomes part of the tread and not just the riser. Cutting the edge back and laying a sett edge will result in an even worse fail. Personally I'd start again and either plaster the existing brick or build another course of decorative brick around it possibly with a soldier course forming the trim around it all to finish it neatly becuse free edged sandstone doesn't make for a good looking step.
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:18 am
by segovia
Hi
The timber is only cosmetic but I do agree there is a possibility that it could swell in the future, I have decided to construct two planters across the long edge and have a small step in between the planters. I agree that the the face needs to be brick so I'll remove the timber. Any examples of what it may look like would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
John
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:06 am
by local patios and driveway
Holy moly, i hope thats on your own place and not a customers. Remove the timber
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:49 pm
by Mikey_C
bearing in mind the quite considerable work that seems to be going on around and the fact you clearly don't like the appearance of the bricks, why you kept the bricks/step at all.
you can get sandstone walling blocks, which I will be using shortly as the riser.
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:04 pm
by segovia
The original brick work is a bit tired and has not been constructed very well, having said that it has been there for 36 years. I am thinking of laying another course in front of the existing brick once I have removed the timber. Which leads me back to my original question of how to finish the edge. I am not happy with the exposed sandstone edge, in my mind it needs a "step edge" to step off
J
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:06 pm
by segovia
segovia wrote:The original brick work is a bit tired and has not been constructed very well, having said that it has been there for 36 years. I am thinking of laying another course in front of the existing brick once I have removed the timber. Which leads me back to my original question of how to finish the edge. I am not happy with the exposed sandstone edge, in my mind it needs a "step edge" to step off
J
PS - I see what you mean about sand stone walling blocks, that gives me something to think about. Yes plenty of work going on around so early enough to make changes.
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:14 pm
by lutonlagerlout
you can do a horizontal soldier course bedded with a 30mm overlap if you so wish
then lay your sandstone inside that
cheers LLL
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:30 pm
by segovia
lutonlagerlout wrote:you can do a horizontal soldier course bedded with a 30mm overlap if you so wish
then lay your sandstone inside that
cheers LLL
Hi It sounds a good idea what does it mean?
I am an IT Project Manager with no knowledge of groundwork who needs to have an intelligent and productive conversation with a landscape contractor 
J
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:08 pm
by lutonlagerlout
really as a project manager,
you of all people should know that you need a design first ,from someone competent
and then with that design give at least 3 contractors the opportunity to tender for the job
only 2 photos there but it looks *ugly*
lot of land there so something really pretty could be achieved with some planning
all the best
LLL
Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:23 pm
by segovia
I am coming to the end of a large building extension project which has sapped the funds and does not leave much for the garden. I did have a design but I am unable to complete it as the funds are just not available. The problem I am encountering is that this remaining work is being done "in flight" which causing bad decisions to be made. It's not the contractors fault as he is following the brief to keep cost to a minimum. Hence the advice received here can go into a well defined scope so the works can carry on.