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Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:14 pm
by k_taz2000
Hi
I am new to posting on this forum so apologies if my questions have been answered before, I have had a look through but cant find exactly what I need.
We are almost finished laying our Indian sandstone slabs, they are 22mm sawn calibrated mint ivory. We had a few initial issues with leaching but now we have overcome that problem and are thinking about grouting and sealing them now.
Question 1 - what is done first grout or seal?
Question 2 - because the tiles are sawn edge we were advised to butt them up against each other so there is not too much room for grout. I was thinking of using a brush-in grout, can anyone recommend a good one?
Question 3 - with the brush-in grout I am not sure how to go about putting it on the vertical tiles on the steps, would anyone have any ideas?
Many thanks in advance for any advice
Karen
Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 2:45 pm
by Carberry
1. Pointing first (grout). Sealing is usually done after the patio has been down for awhile.
2. Don't butt them up against each other, you can spall the face of them. I think a smaller joint looks nicer with sawn sandstone, I wouldn't go any less than 6mm or anymore than 10mm.
Rompox or Easijoint for the pointing. Avoid geofix at all costs.
3. Get a pointing tool and push it in to the vertical joints.
Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:50 pm
by lutonlagerlout
if the joints are too tight you will have trouble pointing them
tiles are grouted flags are pointed
I could be wrong but i dont think many manufacturers guarantee joints under 6mm
LLL
ps a photo would help 
Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:55 pm
by London Stone Paving
k_taz2000 wrote:Question 2 - because the tiles are sawn edge we were advised to butt them up against each other so there is not too much room for grout. I was thinking of using a brush-in grout, can anyone recommend a good one?
Who told you to butt join them?
Sawn sandstone is not designed to be but jointed for a variety of reasons:
1. As you have found out there is no room for any grout
2. You can expect a minimum of +/- 2mm on the dimensions so there could easily be 4mm between one slab to the next. This makes butting up very difficult, causes damages to the corners when trying to force them together and also looks naff
3. The water that is supposed to run off the surface of the stone instead runs into the gaps and gets under your patio, causing potential damage to the long term stability of the patio.
6-8mm is perfect for a sawn paving joint. Any smaller and you cant get any point in there. Any bigger and it will detract from the look.
Whoever told you to butt joint your paving is talking from there backside and needs to be told so. Sorry for the strong response but I have seen so many patios ruined by bad advice by people who should know a lot better
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 1:43 pm
by k_taz2000
Hi
Thanks for all the replies.
It was the builder who put the steps in that said to butt them up, there's not much we can do about it now as it's pretty much all been laid.
I have looked at Rom Pox but it only comes in 3 colours none of which will go with the invory sandstone we have. I can't find Easijoint on the net, can you tell me who it is made by?
I tried to attach an image but it kept telling me I had to put a url in.
Karen
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 1:53 pm
by Carberry
Try London Stone for Easijoint. Steve will probably come back to this thread and advise you on colours etc
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 1:55 pm
by k_taz2000
Found it thanks, was using an 'i' when it's a 'y'!
Karen
Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:30 pm
by London Stone Paving
Have you got a photo for the BC yet Karen. If you are struggling email it to me and I will post it for you
steven@londonstone.com
Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 9:46 pm
by digerjones
if you have the problem that they have been butted together, i thought you could open the joint up with the styl saw. if you put 2 blades in, it might get you the desired width, say 4 or 5 mm. just a thought.