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Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:25 pm
by Mr_Mike
Good evening learned stone and concrete people,
I want to fix some 3x1 oak to a yorkstone threshold at my front door.
Am I ok using a conventional masonry drill bit and using brown plugs and suitable screws ? The 3x1 oak strip is just to house a rubber draughtseal horizontally at the base of the door.
.....or do I need a special drill bit ? fixings ? etc....
Any advice gratefully received....
Many thanks........Mike.
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:48 pm
by jonnyboyentire
You want a decent masonry bit, not the diy shed-type multipack rubbish. Make sure the holes in the timber are just a touch bigger than the screws so it doesn't bind. Make sure the screws are size-matched to the plugs (although cracking yorkstone does need some effort!). I would stick some silicone underneath the wood before fixing - it will squeeze excess out as you tighten.
I personally wouldn't use Oak as it has a tendency to crack longitudinally. I'd use a dense hardwood like a pre-made thresh.
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:08 am
by lutonlagerlout
i would use these
its a smaller hole to drill and IMHO they are a better fixing than with plugs
as J said line underside of oak with silicon before fixing
dont forget to countersink the wood
LLL
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 8:57 am
by Mikey_C
have you used those LLL. do you find they hold? I have never liked the look of them always thought I could get a better (more permanent) fix with a plug?
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:11 am
by jonnyboyentire
I've used some of the much bigger ones and they do work but you need to be careful not to overtighten them.
Some of the newer rawlplugs have little barbs on them which really help them grip the hole.
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:53 am
by dig dug dan
thunderbolts every time for me!
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 10:11 am
by mickg
thunderbolts are excellent for fixing a timber post to a wall or concrete fence post but to just fix a small piece of wood to a flag is certainly over kill
as already said drill your holes first and silicone the under side of the timber, for a neater finish so the screw heads are not visible I would counter bore the holes and put timber plugs over the screws making sure the grain of the plug is facing the same direction as the oak strip
don't use traditional steel screws as they will stain the timber over time make sure the screws are either brass or stainless steel
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:21 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i have used the bigger ones that window fitters use now
we call them masonry fixings ,drill a 6mm hole and fire the 7mm screw in with the cordless
great fixing IMHO
also if you make a mistake they are easy to get out and move
those fishers were a a pain to get out,and didnt always grip
plus you are drilling a smaller hole so its less dust etc
LLL
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:21 pm
by Mr_Mike
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I think I'll go with the plugs and screws, counterbored and timber pelleted. Won't forget the silcone....
The masonry screws look good....but I've only got one stab at it.....and nothing to test them out on first....so will go with plugs in this instance.
Many thanks again for all the replies.
Mike. 
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:33 pm
by Mr_Mike
I've changed my mind....I'm going with the masonry screws !! 
At least I've got two approaches to the task in hand now.....and some spare Oak....lol.
Cheers.....M.
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:48 pm
by lutonlagerlout
the masonry screws work best if the brick work is sound
LLL
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:18 pm
by Mr_Mike
It's a solid slab of yorkstone I'm fixing to. I guess as long as I'm not too close to the edge, I should be O.K. ?
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:03 pm
by Mikey_C
yeh you will be fine like you say solid slab.
my trouble is I'm never fixing into anything solid usually 2-3" of 80-100 year old plaster, and crappie soft as shite bricks loosely held together with crumbling mortar.
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:45 pm
by lutonlagerlout
resin fixings for you then mikey,work well in that scenario
LLL