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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:17 pm
by katmark
Hi all,
does anyone have an opinion on what the best way would be to produce a dark slate gray coloured concrete ?
My initial thoughts were to go with an integrally coloured concrete, probably using a coloured admix, so that the main colour is all through the job & any wear/damage would not be so obvious.
Would I still need float a (essentially colourless) colour hardner into the work ?
I have found a local ready mix supplier who will add my supplied colour for free (no mention of clean out costs).Costs are around 280 quid for 3.6m cubed of PIC spec mix
OR,
Is it best to use what all the contractors use ie a dry shake coloured hardner.
ALSO,
What are the essential tools needed for PIC eg bugroller, fresno etc.
Is a sealer just for aesthetic purposes ?
Much obliged
Mark, Cumbria
Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:40 pm
by Ted
Both techniques - integrally colouring (IC) or using a colour hardener (CSH) - have their shortcomings.
IC is more expensive than CSH. If the sides of your slab will be visible (ie, if shuttering stairs on/off the slab) integral colour is essential (IMO, unless you use real bricks). Also, should you drop something very heavy on your PIC and chip it, it is more difficult (but not mpossible) to repair integrally coloured concrete than colour hardened.
You will want a bug and floats with both techniques. Integral is easier though, as you don't have to float in the CSH.
A sealer is pretty much essential as it protects the concrete.
Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:22 pm
by katmark
Thanks Ted,
I won't really have any visible sides, my main reason was for ease/speed of install.
I ahven't priced IC vs CSH yet, but picsuk.com do a 'colour conditioning admixture' & CSH stuff.
How about the need for a hardner on top of IC concrete ?
On the tools, I'm going to hire a beam vibrating screeder (probably ran between rails) - will I still need a bug & will the screeder get rid of all air sufficiently ?
as an addendum, I'm not looking for some 'show house' finish with a perfect cobble texture & loads of different hues. In fact I've just been told that I need to aim for v dark gray colour. By the way, what does IMO stand for ??
Mark
Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:45 am
by lutonlagerlout
IMO = in my opinion
LOL = laugh out loud
FUBAR = f***ED UP BEYOND ALL RECOGNITION
etc etc ad nauseum
LLL
Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:53 pm
by katmark
Hope I'm not posting a FUBAR one in a few weeks !!!
Any further advice and opinions are much apreciated
Mark
Posted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:47 pm
by Mark B
i thought the "bug" was to bring the fat to the top of the concrete, a job the beam screader might not do as good a job of, but you could probably just use the screeder.
Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:10 pm
by katmark
...and depress the aggregates as I understand it. I wasn't planning on relying on the beam screeder alone to do this - I was more concerned with getting rid of all the air.
Will a bull float be OK to float it with ? (ie do I need a 'fresno' as well ?)
Be glad of anyones opinion on the integral colour vs dry shake stuff ?
thanks
Mark :;):
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 5:51 pm
by katmark
Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy the tools & / or the materials for PIC ?
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:26 pm
by Ted
katmark wrote:Will a bull float be OK to float it with ? (ie do I need a 'fresno' as well ?)
I think you can get away without a 'fresno'. I have often seen contractors do without this before. Ask the supply house that you choose what will happen if you don't use one. Whenever I do PIC, I use both a mag (to help float in the colour) and steel (to finish and "close" the concrete) trowel but so far I have been able to set up scaffold boards so have had easy access to the whole of the slab. I just use my plastering trowel to finish it. You can rent Fresnos from Jewsons and HSS but it is not cheap.
Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 10:29 pm
by Ted
katmark wrote:Does anyone know the cheapest place to buy the tools & / or the materials for PIC ?
Ebay.co.uk.
Many people buy these "off the shelf" PIC businesses from PICS and the like and go bust within a year as they can't do the work and make money.
Also there are many good products available from America on Ebay.com.
Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:24 pm
by katmark
Thanks again Ted,
I've been looking on e-bay - Cadillac concrete (Canada) will send mats for about 130 quid. Haven't seen any second hand ones in UK. I'll try ebay.com.
I've seen the elite crete site & tools do seem reasonable on there. I'll ask about the fresno
Does steel actually close the surface more than the mag float ?
I've priced up vibrating beam screed hire & it's not cheap ! If I just use a straight edge screed followed by rollerbug would this be enough ie to get all the air out ?
Cheers
Mark
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 7:40 pm
by Ted
I think the steel trowel does close the concrete where the mag doesn't, but I have seen contractors do a good looking job without a fresno so don't know how important it is to close the concrete...
I don't think you need one of those vibrating screeders. You don't have to do a brilliant job of screeding like you do if doing a floor. You just need to get the levels right. I don't use a screeder or a piece of wood normally; just a spirit level but I do give the concrete a good tamp as I am screeding it.
Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 7:05 pm
by katmark
I was more concerned with getting all the air out than levelling (slabs will be 5'' thick)
Tools mats etc now on order - no going back now !
Just need right weather at time when friends can help.
If anyones interested I'll post pics on site - even if I make a cock up of it all !