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Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:48 pm
by Wills gardens
So I have done as many patios last year as I have done with planting.
The way I have been doing it is to excavate down to 150mm
100mm sub base plate wacked down level
mortar bed ontop of the sub base sticking the slabs down
dry mix brushed into wet joints and finished
seems to work for me but does it sound ok?
This is only for patios and not anything thats going to have cars on it
cheers WIll
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 5:24 pm
by lutonlagerlout
"dry mix brushed into wet joints and finished"
epic fail will
you need to use a moist mix for pointing and use a trowel or jonting iron to push it into the joints
also ensure full bed of mortar under flags
other than that fine m8 
LLL
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:07 pm
by Wills gardens
thats what i meant with the joints, lay the slabs on a full bed, let it cure for like 3 hours then wet the joints and brush in sand/cement mix dry then run over it with a pointer, saves you staining the slabs
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:55 pm
by GB_Groundworks
nope
what tony (lout) said if you use a proper mix of mortar but let it get to the point where is still malleable but not completely dry then point with this you'll get a strong joint that's last and wont stain the flags plus you can strike it with an iron a trowl or a i find a piece of 15mm copper or polly pipe gives a nice finish.
get a cuppa and spend a few hours reading the main site its the best time you'll spend and a really good investment in your business
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:56 pm
by Wills gardens
beer in hand im off for a real read then
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:57 pm
by DNgroundworks
i still wouldnt have much confidence in that method, the mix has got to be wet when applied to the joint and finished with a trowel - i tried the "dry" method once when i first laid indian stone years ago as LLL says epic fail!
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:58 pm
by GB_Groundworks
specifically http://www.pavingexpert.com/pointing.htm
quote:
We only use this dry grouting method with freshly buttered joints, where find that there is sufficient moisture from the 'proper' mortar to initiate setting of the dry mix. Dry mix into dry joints rarely, if ever, produces a good joint
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:27 pm
by lutonlagerlout
here is one i did earlier
you can see the indian stone has taken some moisture from the mortar,but this mortar was what brickie's would call stiff
cheers LLL
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1263241821
Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:33 pm
by rab1
nice looking job
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:58 pm
by Wills gardens
so from reading some more im stuck as to whether a base is needed?
typically i have been puting down 100mm dtp1 and wacking it down then mortar to that but now im thinking maybe i could use a 75mm base? save some costs?
Will they really last on a solid wacked earth base?
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:17 pm
by cookiewales
Wills gardens wrote:so from reading some more im stuck as to whether a base is needed?
typically i have been puting down 100mm dtp1 and wacking it down then mortar to that but now im thinking maybe i could use a 75mm base? save some costs?
Will they really last on a solid wacked earth base?
you can not lay on earth wacked or not thats for the cowboys :p
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:21 pm
by Bob_A
I asked on here whether a sub base is needed for a patio. The answer being that it may be ok but rather than take a chance use one anyway.
I seem to remember 75mm sub base is usually ok but always dig deeper if you come across any suspect areas.
I also seem to remember 75mm as being ok if you're using type1, something to do with size of the larger paricles being approx half of 75mm or summat like that, I'm sure one of the pro's can explain it better :p
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:25 pm
by Wills gardens
75 it is then saves me a bit so a tiny bit more profit wohooo
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 7:51 pm
by lutonlagerlout
pros would use 100mm will
MOT cost feck all in the scheme of things,100mm compacted is ideal
maybe more if the ground is soft
LLL
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:08 pm
by Bob_A