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Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:58 am
by offy
hi, new here, loads of info on the site, thanks, but i was searching for info on getting slabs to meet up with other angles.
basically, i have been running in a 900 wide path (600x600 and 300x600), to free edge either side.
at certain times it intersects with back edgers that form driveways, these driveways are sloping down towards the road and the slabs are level, so they do not meet up and have a trip hazard.
i have seen individual slabs (on a 600x600 path) cut across the diagonal to get past this, with each half meeting 2 angles, would it be the same principle as this? and would i be able to cut each slab individually or would i need to look at the path as a whole and cut the diagonal over the whole 900?
i'm guessing the latter and look at the 900 as a whole or the finished paving will look like a right mish mash of cuts.
i also assume it makes a difference which way round i put the diagonal cut?
sorry if thats confusing i couldnt describe it any other way
Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 4:53 am
by mickg
A photo would be helpful offy
Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:24 am
by seanandruby
Welcome offy. you really need to go to the main index and look under 'cutting flags'. Remember on a free edge you need a wettish mix to stop flags moving. It's always advisable to look at the index first, as it is well explained and photo's to :;):
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:53 am
by Tony McC
In effect, a diagonal cut is the only way of getting a flag to accommodate two contrasting levels, but, as I keep saying to designers and contractors all over the place, if a paving unit needs a diagonal cut to accommodate levels, then you're using the wrong paving unit. A smaller unit would introduce more intermediate joints and therefore more opportunity for gradual level change without the need for unsightly diagonal cuts.
In this example, the sheer number of diagonally cut flags destroys any semblance of design so why could the designer or the contractor switch to a shot-textured block paver (Tescina is the block version of Saxon flags) or even use a band of the Tegula blocks used for the detail pattern for those two courses? This would have eliminated all that additional work and the dust/slurry generated, and would have been far more attractive visually.
All too often, designers and contractors adhere far too rigidly to a paving unit to create what they think is a homogeneous look instead of thinking through what would give the best results, both visually and in terms of workability.
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:48 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i think the gaffer is saying " don't do it offy"
i hate to see those diagonal cuts, normally it shows a lack of forethought when setting out the job
and as T says theres much better alternatives
LLL
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:14 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
thats right luton .only time you should really see mitres are on dropper kerbs on a crossing or when there is no other option .as you said bad setting out creates mitres.cpl of years ago the romanian who was on our job mitred a slab both ways i.e a cross.thought he was trying to make a union jack out of the stone 
Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:42 pm
by offy
hi guys, thanks for the help, yeah it would seem to me that the best way around this is not to do it in the first place!!
i did have a look on the page for cuts, but couldnt see anything on how to match up different angles, i saw the diagonal cut on 1 photo, but didnt see any more, did i miss some?
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:01 am
by Tony McC
I can't fathom out what you mean by "matching up different angles". A photie or rough sketch would help enormously.
Posted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:44 pm
by ambient
do you mean mitreing one path into another
Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:16 am
by Tony McC
If it is simply a case of mitreing, then the basic principles are outlined on this page. In theroy any two equal width pavements or elements can be mitred.