The Brew Cabin

Posted: **Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:20 pm**

Hi,

I've been looking for ideas for a contemporary garden path using a natural stone and after receiving some samples I'm sold on the blue Forest Pennant flags.

However, before I place my order I would appreciate any views on the design. The path will only be 0.9m wide but will have to follow the line of a conservatory with three sides at 45 deg angles (1.58m per side).

I was planning on having a 150mm wide edge course on either side of the path with a shot blasted finish, with random width sawn finish flags (all 300mm long) forming the main part of the path. In each row of flags, there will probably only be one or two joints (not sure what size of joint size would look best yet though).

Does anyone know whether this 'design' would look okay and work. I need to read up further on how you would get the flags around the 45 degree corners but for now I'm struggling visualising the finish.

Any views would be very much appreciated before I place an order for this great looking stone.

Many thanks,

Damian

Posted: **Fri Jul 20, 2007 2:09 pm**

You need to mitre the flags at the 45Â° line. This is explained here

As for the joints - 9-12mm wide, either pointed with mortar of jointed with one of the better polymeric products that are available.

Posted: **Sat Jul 21, 2007 2:12 am**

Hi Tony,

Thanks for the information.

I am interested why you do the mitre and remove a section of the preceding block. Is it to get a better balance of the sizes across the two blocks, rather than having a full sized block and a very small mitred block?

With my layout, having five rows of 300mm flags with say a 10mm joint will bring the last flag within 30mm of the 45 degree corner (the side is 1.58 long). My initial thought was to cut a mitred flag with just 30mm on the shortest side (i.e. to take the flags up to the corner). If I reduced the joint sizes to say 5mm, I would probably have a mitred flag with the shortest side around 50mm. However, from the information on the site I guess this isn't actually the right way to do things!

Maybe I should get the graph paper out before I go near anything!

Many thanks again,

Damian

Posted: **Sat Jul 21, 2007 10:09 am**

small mitred blocks ( darts) are more likely to dislodge and sink a bit. mitred joints are more aesthetically pleasing to the eye. cant you open the flag joints to 16 ml?

Posted: **Sat Jul 21, 2007 11:31 am**

Hi,

I think I was looking to have smaller cleaner joints if possible.

Would having 50mm at the smallest section of the mitre (with the flag increasing in size along the 22.5 degree angle) still be classed as a dart? I would have thought there would still be enough flag to hopefully stay stable?

Thanks for your help,

Damian

Posted: **Sat Jul 21, 2007 1:17 pm**

It should look summat like this....

...all joints are just 6mm wide.

Posted: **Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:51 am**

Hi,

Thanks for the replies - I think I am okay with the laying side now.

Only one slight problem, I was planning to use the pennant stone as a 100mm edging wither side of the flags but the cost (cutting, etc) is a little bit more than expected (to the wife anyway!).

Does anyone have any ideas what else may work as an edging course with this type of stone?

Many thanks,

Damian

Posted: **Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:59 pm**

I would of thought a trip to your local B M, or paving specialist would give you ideas. It depends if you want to match the colour or contrast. there are all types of bricks, edgings and dare i say it..... timber. Maybe you could go without an edge. Only you and 'er indoors will know what is good for you.

Posted: **Fri Aug 24, 2007 1:45 pm**

100mm wide edge course? Reclaimed granite or basalt setts would look luvverly!

The Brew Cabin

Path using forest pennant flags