Mortar dye:difference with different cement?
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Would be very grateful on any thoughts on this:
I've been laying some white granite slabs which the manufacturer reccomends are laid using "white" cement to avoid any risk of staining. I have followed this precaution to be one the safe side but have noticed that the slabs seem pretty resilient to staining and are easy to clean.
Anyway, I now want to point them up using a black mortar dye. I've tested some, but after a day or so the pointing has gone from jet black to silvery grey.
Could this be due to the use of the white cement? Or maybe the joint was to dry when I tested it?
I will test some with normal cement but wondered if anyone had any ideas.
cheers
I've been laying some white granite slabs which the manufacturer reccomends are laid using "white" cement to avoid any risk of staining. I have followed this precaution to be one the safe side but have noticed that the slabs seem pretty resilient to staining and are easy to clean.
Anyway, I now want to point them up using a black mortar dye. I've tested some, but after a day or so the pointing has gone from jet black to silvery grey.
Could this be due to the use of the white cement? Or maybe the joint was to dry when I tested it?
I will test some with normal cement but wondered if anyone had any ideas.
cheers
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Even with grey cement your grout is going to fade with time, and you are going to have to be VERY careful grouting, the stains will become noticable weeks later. Dependent on the oxide you use, more money, better quality, you would need about 500gms to 1kg per wheelbarrow mix, or part thereof. Would it not be better to consider a specialist grout?
W.G.Carter-Smith
http//:victoriancobbles.co.za
http//:victoriancobbles.co.za
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Black dye with white cement? Not an ideal combination!
You'd get better results using standard OPC, better yet with PFA (although that's not easy to source in small quantities) but for best results, you should ask your BM to get hold of a few bags of black-coloured lime mortar, which will stay black-ish for longer and give a degree of flexinbility to the pavement.
You'd get better results using standard OPC, better yet with PFA (although that's not easy to source in small quantities) but for best results, you should ask your BM to get hold of a few bags of black-coloured lime mortar, which will stay black-ish for longer and give a degree of flexinbility to the pavement.
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I find the sun bleaches the colour out of black mortar/concrete pretty quickly if exposed. I rendered a wall in black render two years ago and now the wall is light grey! You need to seal the mortar/concrete to protect it from the sun if you want it to stay black...
e2a: i see no point in using white cement if you are using black dye; save your money and use OPC (the grey stuff)
e2a: i see no point in using white cement if you are using black dye; save your money and use OPC (the grey stuff)
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It's a shame it has faded because the balck looks really good, as it does in the example pics on the main site. I followed the instructions from the site and when it went down it looked the nuts.
Where it has faded to grey it still looks OK but some has gone almost white - that's why I wondered about the snocrete maybe being the cause or the joints were too dry when pointed.
Thanks for all the comments, I think I will try another test with normal cement and see if using OPC does stain as the manufacturer off the slabs suggest it does.
cheers
Where it has faded to grey it still looks OK but some has gone almost white - that's why I wondered about the snocrete maybe being the cause or the joints were too dry when pointed.
Thanks for all the comments, I think I will try another test with normal cement and see if using OPC does stain as the manufacturer off the slabs suggest it does.
cheers
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You are just showing off now!
perhaps if i had got the spelling right ted, its pozzolanic,Doh!
its what the romans used before cement to make mortar go off,lots of things can do this including brick dust, soot, and silica
all of the pebble dash fell of my house (circa 1922) because they added soot/coal dust or summat to the lime mortar and it didn't work
tell you what though the mortar is still really black
cheers LLL
Edited By lutonlagerlout on 1170368812
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Using white cement defeats the object, just a bit!
There are lots of factors involved in using pigments, synthetic iron oxides don't fade but do 'weather' (no, not sure what the difference is, both end up lighter than you want!) over time. Use a dark opc (I think rugby is a little darker than most) and black sand (or failing that marine sand - some sands seem to leech colours which can lighten the effect) and 10% of pigment to weight of cement. That's the maximum it's worth using - it'll give maximum depth of colour, any more makes no difference and can weaken the mortar.
Edited By mouldmaker on 1170768131
There are lots of factors involved in using pigments, synthetic iron oxides don't fade but do 'weather' (no, not sure what the difference is, both end up lighter than you want!) over time. Use a dark opc (I think rugby is a little darker than most) and black sand (or failing that marine sand - some sands seem to leech colours which can lighten the effect) and 10% of pigment to weight of cement. That's the maximum it's worth using - it'll give maximum depth of colour, any more makes no difference and can weaken the mortar.
Edited By mouldmaker on 1170768131
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