Firstly to warn you I'm a complete noice so be kind to the idiot.
I'm laying a patio in tavertine slabs and want to use pavers for detailing and to create drainage channels. The Pavers are 5omm and the slabs 30mm. How do I go about this.
Do I need to put in the pavers first with cement bases and generally treat them as edge courses, or do I allow the bedding materials to take up the differences in depth.
Thanks
Mixing slabs and pavers - Varying depths
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Ross-Paving
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Hello Di,
This is a favourite of mine as I frequently finish the edges of slabs with paviors, it gives that defined finish to the path or patio area. My method is to level the area first with a suitable sub-base, scalpings/concrete sand depending on the existing surface, then bed the slabs into approximately 30mm of concrete sand:cement 10:1 mix and then when bedding in the paviors I reduce the depth of bed to make the paviors flush with the slabs, when the paviors are contained within the slabs the reduced bed is fine but when the paviors are around the perimeter it is best to remove the bed and at least 1� of the sub-base before refilling with bedding mix and fixing the paviors. With the 10:1 mix it will take a few days to become hard enough for heavy traffic, if this is a concern make the mix stronger.
This method I have used for the past 10 years and haven’t come up with a faster/better option yet.
This is a favourite of mine as I frequently finish the edges of slabs with paviors, it gives that defined finish to the path or patio area. My method is to level the area first with a suitable sub-base, scalpings/concrete sand depending on the existing surface, then bed the slabs into approximately 30mm of concrete sand:cement 10:1 mix and then when bedding in the paviors I reduce the depth of bed to make the paviors flush with the slabs, when the paviors are contained within the slabs the reduced bed is fine but when the paviors are around the perimeter it is best to remove the bed and at least 1� of the sub-base before refilling with bedding mix and fixing the paviors. With the 10:1 mix it will take a few days to become hard enough for heavy traffic, if this is a concern make the mix stronger.
This method I have used for the past 10 years and haven’t come up with a faster/better option yet.
Ross Paving, Driveway and Patio specialists, www.Ross-Paving.co.uk
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Tony McC
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The layout of the site often dictates which is the best order to lay. If you take a typical patio laid against the house, it makes sense to lay the edge course pavers that are against the house as a first step, then lay the flags before finishing off, much as Ross described, by fitting the external edge course pavers to suit the flagging.
However, if you're using pavers as a drainage channel, these, too, should be laid before the flags, as their level is critical to the effective drainage of the rest of the pavement. In short, the flags have to be laid to suit the levek of the drainage channel, and not vice-versa, for obvious reasons.
If you fancied using an external edge course as a level or screed guide, then there is a 'floating edge' methodology described on this page that you might find useful.
However, if you're using pavers as a drainage channel, these, too, should be laid before the flags, as their level is critical to the effective drainage of the rest of the pavement. In short, the flags have to be laid to suit the levek of the drainage channel, and not vice-versa, for obvious reasons.
If you fancied using an external edge course as a level or screed guide, then there is a 'floating edge' methodology described on this page that you might find useful.
Site Agent - Pavingexpert
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DiabolicalDi
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