Repair/laying tarmac from bags - help

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Bilabonic
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:51 pm
Location: Wales

Post: # 9475Post Bilabonic

Hi All

I have had a boundary wall built and now have to repair to existing Tarmac, the width varying from 10 to 50 cm for about 25m of wall.

I have cut back the edge with disc cutter to give nice clean edge tarmac side the other side being the wall. I plan on using the bagged bitmac to patch this area in.

I will be filling the gap first with concrete base, my questions are -

What depth shall i leave for the tarmac (onto soound concrete base) ?

Do i need to apply a TACK coat and where to obtain from ??

Do i need jointing compound ???

Also will a very heavy concrete garden roller suffice to compact it ????

The only thing my local merchants stock is this stuff in a can which i think is jointing compound.......

Thanks in advance for advice



:)

bobbi o
Posts: 481
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:55 pm
Location: glasgow

Post: # 9487Post bobbi o

30mm depth of tarmac would be fine
it'll be fine without a tack coat
good idea to seal the joint with a tub of colas bitukold
wacker plate would do
the bagged cold tar is for temporary reinstatements and does not set.-better with some hot stuff to match the existing.

ask one of the utilities asphalt crews if they'll do a homer for cash would be your best bet.

Tony McC
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Joined: Mon Jul 05, 2004 7:27 pm
Location: Warrington, People's Republic of South Lancashire
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Post: # 9551Post Tony McC

I'd be happier to see a tack coat used if you're placing any form or macadam over a concrete surface.

Allow 25-30mm minimum for your tarmac surfacing and, as Bobbi O said, see if you can get a local surfacing contractor or one of the utility contractors working locally to do the whole job - tack coat, surfacing and joint sealing - for beer vouchers.

It's impossible to get tack coat in quantities of less than 25 litres, and the jointing compound is usually 25 littre drums too, although I have seen 10 litre containers. The repair macadams are poor quality and even if tack-coated, jointed and rolled with a 10T road roller, is unlikely to last more than 2-3 years. A hot-laid material will give far, far better results, and it really is worth waiting afew months until you spot a local contractor, because the qualitative difference between a cold patch repair and a hot lay permanent re-surfacing is EN-NOR-MOUS!
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