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Posted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 11:42 pm
by lutonlagerlout
looks good simon
i wont mention the 1 brick on edge on the left hand side of the padstone
looks like you will have to use noggins on the hall as they have lath and plastered it before that internal wall was built
also a little tip when using acrows
put a couple of screws through the acrow into the head tree and the soul plate
I had one fall on me at tea break one day and it bloody hurt
nice work LLL 
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:31 am
by Suggers
loving pic 2, Simone - you have a very trim figure.
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:17 pm
by rimexboy
lutonlagerlout wrote:looks good simon
i wont mention the 1 brick on edge on the left hand side of the padstone
looks like you will have to use noggins on the hall as they have lath and plastered it before that internal wall was built
also a little tip when using acrows
put a couple of screws through the acrow into the head tree and the soul plate
I had one fall on me at tea break one day and it bloody hurt
nice work LLL
ouch i bet that hurt did you spill your tea LLL??
im not sure how to quote suggers post but...
thanks for the nice comments, i try to look my best...
Also one last question is should i of put slate in the joints or not as some one i know said i should have in the top???
i have no idea as you can see with my enginerring bricks used... and one on end aswell..... (Slapped wrists for me sorry guys)
thanks simon
Posted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:11 pm
by GB_Groundworks
use slate as a packer so teh bricks fill the void and push on the joists so yo dont get any sag when you release the across
like lll says always screw your acrows in, they make a mess of floors when they fall or you timber falls off them on you
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1287509982
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:44 am
by lutonlagerlout
it will be gone off now simon, so its too late
we generally as we put the top course of bricks in, make sure every joint is full brick by brick as we lay them ,by using slate or stiff muck. or even cut up creasing tiles===> depends on the gap
the fact that you have a bit of mortar on your bricks is good because plasterers always moan about the plaster not sticking to those bricks,so those muck splashes give them a key
when doing openings like that i alway try and "pinch" the acrows up another 5-10mm
then while the lintel/bwk is still green lower it back that 5-10mm so it has full contact whilst still wet
then remove acrows the next day
looks a good job overall
LLL
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:15 pm
by rimexboy
guys not sure how to multi quote the messages you have left ...
so many thanks GB groundworks and LLL for the advice
cheers simon
Posted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 10:53 pm
by lutonlagerlout
Suggers wrote:loving pic 2, Simone - you have a very trim figure.
OMG bro'back mountain has a new cowboy :;):
only joking suggers
LLL :laugh:
