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Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:22 pm
by pcdoc
Looking for some advice on cutting with my stihl saw.
I can use it fine for most tasks, but I struggle a bit sometimes with accurate straight cuts (accross slabs etc). Straight lines are fine, but sometimes I've lined it up wrong and it ends up 5deg off square - you get the idea- straight line, in slightly wrong direction 
I'm about to lay some polished sandstone (22mm) and most of the slabs will fit into my big tile saw, but the biggest size will be stihl sawed.
Can I clamp a bit of wood to the slab and run the blade down it as a guide? Is that madness or even possible?
I'm a keen diy'er so dont get as much practice as the pro's.
Any help or tips would be great.
Thanks.
-Michael.
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:32 pm
by local patios and driveway
there must be loads of methods, sometimes i run my blade along the marked line then return back to the start and follow the groove, once the blade has cut in to the block the cut sides are then keeping your saw straight, a little like stabilisers, you can adjust at any time slightly. if im cutting pavers, i lay a straight edge and scaore with that, remove the edge and cut free hand. the best thing is to practice and be steady, oh and buy some of these:
http://pavers-chalk.com/
they are the dogs danglies, im certain the top fellas have them and if not they should get some
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 11:38 pm
by GB_Groundworks
I use a bit if wood or angle iron and some quick clamps on a pallet with water suppression and a good blade in my trust ts410 that lives in it's own sports back and only I use haha, lads use the partners and ts400's.
Got a trolley mounted floor saw with a 325mm blade for concrete and long cuts
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:30 am
by lutonlagerlout
as dan said pavers chalk is invaluable for marking
I prefer blue for no particular reason
i use goggles and ear muffs mark the slab 3-4 times then position myself just behind it and start cutting,if you have the water suppression just on it does not obliterate the lines
I have seen people uses bits of wood etc,but that is too slow for me
LLL
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:08 am
by mickg
paver chalk and a straight piece of wood or use your level to mark the sandstone, stand in a comfortable position at 90 degree's to the cut one foot on the sand stone and the other leg behind you for balance
doing this you will be stood over the stone and be able to look down at the side of the diamond blade and see the chalk mark, with the saw revving gently touch the sandstone just barely leaving the chalk mark showing and proceed to go forwards along the line making sure you keep your body straight and don't start to veer from side to side whilst cutting otherwise your cut edge will be like a dogs hind leg
you can run the saw along your chalk line to score the stone or if your confident start at one side cutting and continue forwards the full depth, what happens is the blade is held in place by the material what your cutting so it will go in the shape and direction what you are making it go so as long as you keep the blade straight with the chalk line, but I am very good with a saw and have forgot how hard it can be to some people who are not as experienced
now thats if your right handed, if your left handed you cant see the chalk line and you will end up with a dogs dinner and i don't know the answer, I know this because every time someone who is left handed gives me a lift the cuts are shite and have to be re cut *shrug shoulders*
have a practice doing a cut without a timber guide, if you can't succeed then clamp a timber to the flag and run the saw down the edge, whatever method you feel comfortable with then that's the method you use
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I had always used white french chalk until being given a few paver markers last year and I too now like the blue, its only on the argent dark what makes it difficult to see the line when the blocks are wet
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Giles you kept it quite that you have purchased a TS 410 ?
last time saw's got discussed you had a TS 400 :p
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:56 am
by henpecked
If your stuck ,use a bit of slate 
Hp
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:00 am
by seanandruby
i use a rip of ply wide enough to rest my foot on. Line it up with you marked line and cut nice and steady back and forth along the edge being careful not to cut into the ply, or your foot
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:58 am
by pcdoc
Excellent advice all round, thanks!
I'll practice some more and when necessary, I will use a piece of clamped wood (working on a pallet).
Again- excellent advice, thanks.
-Michael.
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:39 pm
by GB_Groundworks
Mick
I didn't buy it dad did, I then squirreled it away into my truck haha lost to many to brickies etc filling them up with neat petrol.
Edited By GB_Groundworks on 1281531222
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:11 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
if using water .mark slabs with permanent marker .tilt saw when cutting .cut an angle .never cut str8 down ,unless you need both pieces.
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:33 pm
by local patios and driveway
if you are left handed you just have to cut from the top of the slab rather than the bottom.
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:33 pm
by GB_Groundworks
i now use a light saber or if thats not charged up i get jacky chan to break them for me hahaha
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:45 pm
by mickg
I want a pint of what your on tonight Giles
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:54 pm
by GB_Groundworks
just feeling silly, only just cracked my first beer
have actually cut an indian stone slab with a wet cutter, my mate got one off me for his uni project cut out letters with the uni's 5 axis flowjet, did different colours and slightly bigger sizes, was cool watching it just sliced through it like anything. as they are in excess of £500k not really practical for site work haha
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:10 am
by Mikey_C
GB_Groundworks wrote:as they are in excess of £500k not really practical for site work haha
espically round your way Giles it would just get nicked!! 