New cabstar has landed - (it only took 8 months to arrive)

[dig dug dan]

here is my new workhorse: Day one. Not signwritten:



Here it is today. Just put on the signwriting.










Have spent all day today getting this up to my spec, and still not finished

Installed mudflaps
Installed nissan seat covers
Inststalled floormats
Adjusted computer settings
Removed warning stickers from tailgate
installed signwriting
Removed rear bench seat
removed rear selt belts
Disconnected alarm on the tipper
Disconnected the warning lights and alarms on the tipper button wander lead

All thats left?

try and work out how to remove the rear heater (standard factory fit). It has two pipes that run up underneath into the heater (an in and an out). i tried to simply disconnect them, but they are filled with radiator fluid.
Then cut some chequerplate to form a false floor , and my cabin space is free for storage

does anyone know if i can simply disconnect each pipe, and join tjhe two together with some copper? this should re-form the loop that was there when the heater was in place??

Oh and ingimex put the tipper button on the rear cab, with not enough lead to get it to the front, so to tip, i have to get out and stand at the side of the truck, press the tipper, get back in, drive forward to discharge the load, then get back out and press the down button.

The amount of warning stickers they have put everywhere, you would think i was handling nuclear waste!



Edited By dig dug dan on 1264273097

[cookiewales]

nice looking truck that Dan you can join pipes together maybe using something stronger than copper you should be able to move tipper control no prob. why buy crew cab to take out seats what weight does that carry and mpg :;): :;): :;):

[rab1]

now tell the truth, are you also going to polish it tomorrow?. looks good by the way.

[dig dug dan]

why buy crew cab to take out seats what weight does that carry and mpg

I want the rear cab to store power tools etc when fencing, not to carry passengers. I only work on my own.
When i do fencing, the amount of fixings and various tools needed is huge, and that leaves the rear for the materials etc.

Mpg was at 25 on the computer when i got it. just reset it to see what my driving style achieves!

[Dave_L]

To loop the rear heater pipes don't use a length of copper, you need to use a proper sized hose joiner - it has a lump or serrated lugs to prevent the hose blowing off, even when clipped into place with a worm clip.

[Dave_L]

Something along the lines of this Dan......

[lutonlagerlout]

looking good dan, we have a large too l vault welded on to the chassis of ours,1500 by 600 by 800 roughly
its fine for all the power tools plus most of the hand tools if stacked right
I can see why you want to take those stickers off :;):
LLL

[dig dug dan]

To loop the rear heater pipes don't use a length of copper, you need to use a proper sized hose joiner - it has a lump or serrated lugs to prevent the hose blowing off, even when clipped into place with a worm clip.

thanks dave. it is what i suspected i might need to do. those are plastic though. would they do? if so, anywhere online i can buy them?



Edited By dig dug dan on 1264345614

[Dave_L]

Do you roughly know the size of the hose that needs to be joined? Probably around 19mm or 3/4"?

[Dave_L]

I reckon this would see you sorted Dan.

[url=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/19mm-3-4-Straight ... dZViewItem
QQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item439b7e9e5d]19mm barbed hose joiner[/url]

[dig dug dan]

i will have to measure it with calipers, but i guess 19mm sounds about right to me.
Have ordered it, and will await to see if it fits.

I dont need to bleed the system afterwards do i? just drain the fluid from the heater and connect the pipes up?

of course when i come to sell the truck in four years time, i will have to put it all back again!

[GB_Groundworks]

we had a renault master 3.5 ton crew cab tipper did the same stripped seats out, blacked windows and steel meshed them as well