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Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:56 am
by mo-uk
Hi
I have an area I want to pave over, this includes an existing solid concrete base.
Now it seems the furthest point away from my house (where I will start from) might be slightly higher than the middle - which then gets higher towards my house
so a slope downwards and then a slop upwards.
now obviosuly when i pave i iwll sue a spirit level, so hopefully everything will end up on the same level as when i started
however, what is the best way to work out where any dips are? if it transpires that my starting poitn it much higher than my end point i might just remove the concrete that is there as i don't want it too high.
so are there any tools other than a spirit level? obviously a level will only show me slopes, but as the area is quite big i need to know where it slops up and down and the differences in centimetres - whats the best way of doing this?
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 4:55 am
by seanandruby
There are laser levels dumpy levels. But all you will need is a taught string line and a couple of road pins, stakes etc. knock the pins in, one at either end of your slab. mark one of the pins say half a metre above the slab, pull your line tight and with the help of someone hold a level beneath the string and raise or lower the string till it is level, mark the pin when it is and tie the string. then just walk along the line and measure down, the tape will give you different readings as to if its high, or low.
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:10 am
by Rich H
As sean says use a string. If it's a big area then a £25 laser from one of the DIY sheds will give you an accurate enough guide.
Bit concerned about your comment 'everything will end up on the same level'. You know that paving has to be sloped to drain water, don't you?
Posted: Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:29 pm
by Tony McC
There's a bit about screeding a 'valley' on this page
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:58 pm
by Bob_A
I'm a diyer. I bought a laser level but have no confidence in it. A small movement of the bubble seems to make a lot of difference to where the laser ends up.
I've gone back to using a water level, very slow to work with but I'm only doing jobs for myself so I'm not in a hurry
Posted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:23 pm
by henpecked
Bob_A wrote:I'm a diyer. I bought a laser level but have no confidence in it. A small movement of the bubble seems to make a lot of difference to where the laser ends up.
I've gone back to using a water level, very slow to work with but I'm only doing jobs for myself so I'm not in a hurry
Ah, you,ve bought one of those levels with a laser attached. I did myself (£8 from local 'stack'o'ocrap shop)
In theory,they should be quiet good, but as you pointed out , Bob, theyre not very accurate, mainly due to the stand that is about as stable as Jordan 
If your really lucky, there's a few good uns on e-bay or gumtree. Get the ones that either have a rotating laser or a staff with sensor
Hp
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:07 am
by Bob_A
Not sure what you mean by attached.
It's a standard level with a laser built into one end.
I'm concerned with the accuracy in how they install the bubble and laser unit into these type of levels rather than the tripod/stand.
You can have the most stable stand in the world but it won't help if the level has been thrown together.
No doubt if you pay a lot of money for a level it'll be accurate but I'm a diyer and can't justify the cost.
Also being a diyer however much I try there's always a possibility my work may not be 100% accurate, if I'm using inaccurate tools then the problem could be compounded to such an extent that I'm left with a crap job.
That's why I've gone back to a water level, work slow then check, check and recheck, if I do that any discrepancies that creep in should be small enough not to cause any problems
Each to their own but water levels are my choice unless I can get a cheap laser that I have confidence in.
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:38 am
by seanandruby
Water level seems a long way of doing things. I'm sure it's a two man job? Don't try going for zero tolerence on everything it will drive you insane, theres got to be +/- something. String lines are as accurate as we need really, which is very accurate once the levels have been set.
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 12:16 pm
by Bob_A
You can do water levels with 1 man but it is time consuming, ok when the job you're doing is your own but when time=money you can see why a pro would invest in top quality gear.
Once you've got your marks estabilished then like you say it's then down to the strings.
Will take your advice on zero tolerance and insanity that is something I'm often guilty of.
I have a builder friend who can't believe the time and trouble I take over the most simplest tasks :p
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:39 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i have used water levels years ago and tbh they are fiddly and easy to mess up.
got an optical dumpy now and that is accurate enough over most sites +/- 5mm for most building works
LLL
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 11:47 pm
by Stuarty
Never used a water level, former gaffer went out and bout a laser level at some daft price. Turned out to be a good tool, accurate enough, could clearly see the laser even on a pretty bright day. Shame is it only lasted 3 months till some numpty parked the van on it. After that he bought cheapy ones which werent so great. Was given a dumpy for setting out a job, got to site, set it up then started taking measures. The readings i was getting seemed a bit odd, damn thing was 30% out :rock:
Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:29 pm
by GB_Groundworks
anything better than a spirit level?
an experienced eye
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:23 pm
by Artisan
GB_Groundworks wrote:anything better than a spirit level?
an experienced eye
Ebay appears to be fresh out of experienced eyes unfortunately! :;):
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 5:15 pm
by GB_Groundworks
i get 2-3 emails a week form them with cv's looking for work at teh moment 
Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 6:09 pm
by DNgroundworks
From ebay?
Ive had countless letters and cv's through the post from mainly blacktop contractors and people looking for work.