Page 1 of 1
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:35 pm
by andpartington
i am needing to knock a window in to a 9" cavity wall will a stihl with a dust kit on do both skins from the outside in a single hit???.
(background)
there is a lathe on the other side of this wall so i can not make ANY dust even with dust sheets ect i am not brave enough 2 fire up the 9" bosh inside 3 ft away from a monkeys worth of Myford - that some "Muppet" (where is the whistling and acting innocent smiley) bolted to the floor 
any other ideas 4 the iner skin of brick work ??? (outside is a piece of piss with the big bosch) 
thanks andy
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:44 pm
by msh paving
a petrol stihl saw wont cut through a 9inch wall from one side,
you could try the local hire shop and hire a petrol concrete cutting chainsaw,if not looks like a hammer and bolster and tooth the brickwork out and rebrick it,if its thermolight blocks why not cut it out with a handsaw?
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:14 pm
by andpartington
no thermolights i am afraid don't think they where around when this garage was put up :laugh:
andy
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:03 pm
by topgrafter2007
when you say dust kit do you mean water? asin hosepipe connected to your stihl? we use the pump kit from stihl. works a treat inside and not to much water everywhere.
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:05 pm
by GB_Groundworks
we have a partner rail saw is basically a double sized 'stihl' saw for cutting railway lines takes a 450mm blade but still only a 150-200 cut. there are wire diamond saws or bigger sws but you'll need a specialist diamond cutting firm.
or the chainsaws are good but the chains for them are about £350 if i remember rightly and unlikely you can hire one without buying a chain.
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:23 pm
by seanandruby
why not build a frame like a porch, cover in polythene and completly seal it. Then you can wet cut with a petrol saw. ???
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:41 pm
by Pablo
Husky wall saw.
This is exactly what you need and should be available in most decent hire shops. It's a great tool I used it on my house and know plenty others who have too.
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:19 pm
by andpartington
That's the puppy Pablo!!!:p
So how much will an hours hire on that be ????:rock:
andy
Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 10:22 pm
by msh paving
the chances of hiring that saw are prety remote,just looked in speady and brandon hires book not one in sight,great idea but a very very long shot MSH 
Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:32 am
by lutonlagerlout
there are 2 approaches to this,1 is to cut the outer opening 400 mm bigger than you need, remove outer skin.then cut accurately the inner skin from the outside,finally tooth and rebuild the outer skin,this method is time consuming and expensive
2 the way i do it (and i do perhaps 12 like this per year) is to saw the outside as per normal, mark the same lines carefully inside then stitch drill with a 120 mm 6 mm masonry bit every 10 mm then when i have done this i use a longer drill and drill at angles ,if done with a bit of care it gets good results and little dust
took me and the young fella 2.5 hours the other day to widen an internal door like this and install the lintel,dust was minimal
you need a decent percussion drill though,i use a hilti TE20
LLL 
Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:33 am
by lutonlagerlout
ps i like the fact that a standard stihl only goes in 100mm,too many pipes and cables in cavities to risk going right through
IMHO
LLL
Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:22 am
by msh paving
i like that idea LLL so simple and effective ill put that in my ideas box.........lol msh
Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:37 pm
by Mikey_C
I know not favored on this forum but HSS do a concrete ring saw that is petrol driven and cut 10" depth. Not knowing exactly what is meant by 9" cavity (wall - 9" gap - wall OR 9" including bricks and gaps) this may do the job. They use to do a "dust free" thing that looked like a medieval axe but I can't seem to find the catalog and web don't show it.
best of luck.
