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Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:11 pm
by Rugby13
Hi all.
This is a great site, I've been a sneaky reader for quite a while now, great for tips etc.
Anyway the point of this topic is as you can guess screed poles.
I've done a bit of paving with other people previous, and they used metal poles for screeding the sand before the paviours went down.
Ive seen the one you can buy (a bit to pricey for a tight sod like me) and was wondering if any of you pro's could give a tip for the best 2nd option.
Aluminium poles? steel? (seem like they may be a bit heavy)
anyway thanks for any help.
and keep up the good tips!!!!
Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:43 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i go to a metal fab shop in kingsway luton they sell 30mm poles in all sorts of lengths, its conduit for cables,but works well
LLL
Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:37 pm
by Dave_L
We use 25mm box section, a little heavy & cumbersome but at least it's robust.
Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:09 pm
by Rugby13
Excellent, will get off to suppliers in morning.
Thanks both very much for quick reply's
Much appreciated
Rugby13
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:39 pm
by SelectPaving
A quicker easier and cheaper way is simply to use a line, set up your line then run the brick along the side of the line, this way all ground can be wacked down which when using poles you will not be able to wack the areas that the poles cover!
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:40 pm
by Tony McC
Screed rails are normally established into the pre-compacted laying course. If you establish the rails prior to compaction, they *will* move.
20mm dia steel conduit is my preference. There are some fancy 'kits' out there, but none of them offer a particularly attractive benefit that would justify the often excessive price.
"Oh, ours clip together using a patented connector..."
So? What benefit does that provide compared to rails that are simply abutted or overlapped?
"Ours are powder coated...."
How does the colour of the rail improve screed level accuracy?
"Ours are rust-proof aluminium..."
Aaah! Nice and shiny so that the light-fingered brickies are less likely to miss them!
20mm steel conduit - dirt cheap, readily available, can't break. Might not look the best, but it does the job. 
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:11 pm
by msh paving
hi all, im with tony on this one,for the last 12 years ive used 20mm galvanised conduit,very cheap £4.5 for a length
easy to used,if bent easy to cut down,value for money,
teamed up with a probst screeded perfect
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 2:39 am
by lutonlagerlout
SelectPaving wrote:A quicker easier and cheaper way is simply to use a line, set up your line then run the brick along the side of the line, this way all ground can be wacked down which when using poles you will not be able to wack the areas that the poles cover!
i like this way too
it all depends on the job really,obviously you cannot wack the screeding bars,
i like to use a 50mm notched board where the paving (60mm) abuts an edging,but that's common sense
LLL
Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:25 pm
by ambient
never used rails always screeded freehand much more solid than rails
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:12 am
by msh paving
how can you use a probst screder free hand,it will dig in?
i had a german guy who could free hand once but only on small areas to easy to put a dip in the sand,
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:22 pm
by ambient
dont use a probst screeder use an alloy box section straight edge 3 or 2 metres long (lot of floor screeders use them) works for me big areas or small