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Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:25 am
by differentshades
Hi,

Firstly, I want to thank you for the details on your website, it has given me the confidence to try and carry out the project on my own. I am a carpenter with patience so I hope it stands me in good stead! Once completed, I’ll do a small write up and send in some photos.

There are a few reason for my post, as you can tell from the title!

I'll list them in the following order:

about 25m2 block pavers about 100 mm by 100 mm.

1) I have dugout the site and I'm just waiting for the grabber lorry on Monday to cart the stuff away (2nd load), I'll be more sure of what I have to work with when it's all cleared. As things stand, I know that I have gone down further than I needed to, partly my fault and partly the labourer, I am looking at more than 100 mm MOT1 and maybe even 120-150 in some places, so it's not flat, will this be ok as long as the finished MOT1 level is to the required slope?


2)
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I have used a laser level and have found that the tarmacked portion of the dropped curb which meets my property line is about an inch lower than my DPC level. I don't know how I will get a decent slope without going above the DPC (the original cracked concrete level was quite a bit higher, hence I wanted to rip it all out and do it properly)

Was thinking of leaving a gap between the wall and paving, but having read the usefulness or lack of, on the main website, think it will be pointless.

Another thought was to slope towards the house. Basically set some edge restraints around the house with the blocks, butt a gully grate to the edgestones, run a drain pipe from this to the front of the drive, in to a pit filled with pea shingles. The house has a bay window, so not sure if I will have any problems with the mitres for the bay shape for the gully, whether they will leak, and possibly cause settlement of the house over time.

Would prefer sloping away from house though, during rain, the front of my wall is usually dry, it's bare render at the moment.


3)I don't really trust the neighbours wall as can be seen by the pic above, can't see much footing for the wall, thinking of installing edge restraints with full bed as described in the main site.

4)

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Now to the other neighbour, I don't have time or space to build a brick wall. My plan is to shutter off an area the width of a brick, fill with concrete and at a later date, bolt some metal railings into it. That way I'll have something solid to bed the edge restraints to. My question is, do I butt up against the newly formed concrete, or do I leave a gap between that and the edge stone and fill to create a haunch?

Also, is it best to keep the shuttered off area true level, or sloped to match the edge stones? If I slope it, the railings would look a bit off.
5)
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The blocks in question don't have nibs, they are reclaimed. Not sure of the age, so unless I use spacers, it will be hard to have a uniform gap. Looking at the website, I know stones can be set with no gap, gap and big gap! I will be going the bed of sand route so will it cause future problems if I have no gap? They have rounded edges.

6)
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The dropped curb area at the edge of the property seems to be bit of a mess. Would I bed the gully to it as best as possible with a haunch to it? or set it back by an edge course?

7)
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I also have exposed some services, Gas in yello and the electric to the left. Sub grade has come away from the bottom of the gas and so is sagging, there is also a joint in the pipe. I'm afraid that if I lay MOT on it and wacker plate it, I could cause damage to the pipe, I think I need to place something under the pipe but not sure what. A friend that works for EDF Energy says that they just place some bricks under it and backfill, this seems like a bodge though. Could I use cement, builders sand, sharp sand or just backfill with sub grade under and over the top as a cushion?

I know there's a lot of stuff here, but I have been digging for about a week on and off, every Tom, Dick and Harry has walked by and given his 2 cents, but I just want to do it properly. I appreciate any and all advice from knowledgeable people, so would be grateful for your inputs.

thanks

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 12:38 am
by differentshades
I will be uploading all images that I have on imageshak, in the event that you notice something that I have missed.

ImageShackAlbum

Thanks

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 6:57 pm
by r896neo
Your sub base should be 150mm minimum all over. If you have a work van or 4x4 consider going to 200mm or use leanmix as a sub base.

Having a varying depth could cause it to settle unevenly (low risk but possible)

The gas pipes are pretty tough but putting bricks under it is mental. your best bet is to force it upward a little and fill and compact under it with type 1 then a thin layer or grit sand to cushion it from sharp stones even 10mm will do.

Do you have a gulley you could pipe a linear drain into?

Rumbled blocks like that don't usually have spacers. Are they concrete ok?

Your plan with the wall sounds fine. As for the other side a kerb put in level would probably be the best bet so you can have your falls in the paving as needed but maintain a definate boundary. It would also let your strip of concrete go in level.

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:56 pm
by differentshades
Thanks for your reply.
Your sub base should be 150mm minimum all over. If you have a work van or 4x4 consider going to 200mm or use leanmix as a sub base.

I'll even it all out once the excavation is carted away tomorrow morning, and compact it. I know it's a newbie question but what is leanmix?

Re the gas pipes I'll do as you suggest. While I was digging today, came across the water pipe! It's iron, so I'll probably get that changed while the grounds all dug up.

Do you have a gulley you could pipe a linear drain into?
I don't have a gully. This is the bit that's got me stumped. I know I should leave about 150 between the finished level and damp course before I start my paving. But like I said on Post, I only have an inch if I lay the drive level.

The options that I have are:
1) Have it level and pray.
2) Start just under the DPC level and have a slope which would be 1" over 4m.
3) Slope toward the house, but then I would have to consider the drainage very carefully.
Any suggestions there?

Rumbled blocks like that don't usually have spacers. Are they concrete ok?
Yep they are. should lay with spacing using packers or lay closed? If closed, would I get enough sand between what little space there would be?
Your plan with the wall sounds fine. As for the other side a kerb put in level would probably be the best bet so you can have your falls in the paving as needed but maintain a definate boundary. It would also let your strip of concrete go in level.
Sounds like a plan. would it be possible to use the blocks that I have on edge for the edge course, or would they be to weak? The reason I ask, is that I don't know if I would be able to find anything to match or complement the blocks.

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:02 pm
by differentshades
Follow up question, anyone know of a good type 1 supplier near Ilford, Essex.
Also is crushed concrete better or mot type 1 aggregate?

Cheers

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:23 pm
by r896neo
Use type 1, crushed concrete can be a lottery and have very few fines. It's ok for deeper fills or if you know its decent.

Laying it Level and pray is not an option. You may need to get creative and use a kerb near the house to create a small lower down dry area and then have your drive falling out to the road. You could easily gain the 4-6 inches you need using a deep kerb.

Have a read of this page.

http://www.pavingexpert.com/dpc01.htm

Using a dry area is going to leave you a bit stumped at the door but you perhaps need a step anyway? So again a bit of creativity working that out.

Lay the blocks tight, kiln dried sand will works its way in during final compaction.

There are lots of rumbled concrete kerb stones which would compliment those pavers fine. tobermores 'kerbstone' for one or most paving mftrs will have similar units.

Your blocks would do if layed and haunched properly but might look a bit out of scale.

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 7:18 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
I know a supplier based in Dagenham great type one depends on how much you need. 20 a tonne delivered

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:06 pm
by differentshades
Thanks for the replies guys, really, really, really, mean that

@ r896neo
Cheers for link, thought I'd read pretty much everything on the site.
will definitely be using one of the methods suggested.
And cheers for all the other bits of info.

@ilovesettsonmondays
Yup interested in the Type 1 if you have the details, I'll probably need to order in tranches though, I don't have much space to store it, as I was thinking of laying 50-70 mm at a time and then compacting before the next lot. I will be using a compactor from HSS.

One more quickie, I'll be using a drainage channel at the dropped kerb end, emptying out into a pit or large hole. Is it worth getting one of those crate looking thingies or will a hole filled with pea shingle do?
Also I'd rather have the drain emptying at one end of the channel rather than the middle, we're more likely to drive in to the middle of the drive rather than the end, so if there if there are possible settlement issues due to the soakway, it won't be made worse because of the weight of the car.
Am I over thinking this?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 11:23 am
by differentshades
@ilovesettsonmondays
Thanks for the info, found the details and will give them a call. Got to replace water supply pipe first while it's all dug up.
By the way, clicked on your signature link thinking it was something to do with paving! LOL, funny vid!

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:57 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
Lol forgot that was on there Kenny and fergie

Posted: Fri May 01, 2015 11:42 pm
by differentshades
Grounds all clear now. Have uncovered the water pipe and dug a shallow trench to take the footings for the brickwide retaining concrete wall. Will hopefully start the shuttering tomorrow.Image

Posted: Wed May 27, 2015 2:37 pm
by differentshades
Been real busy with work, so haven't go much done.
Dug the trench for the water supply, concreted the right hand side of neighbours path and cleaned up the footing of the brickwall belonging to the left neighbour

http://s12.photobucket.com/user....t=3&o=1

Have to wait till the 7th june for the water board to connect up, they want the trench left open till then, no ifs or buts.

Thinking of suttering the left neighbours footings for a cleaner edge or might lay some edging, not sure yet.
Anyone recommend a geo fabric that I can get hold of easily? thanks

Posted: Wed May 27, 2015 2:41 pm
by differentshades
Image

Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:55 am
by differentshades
Concreted the neighbours side:
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:57 am
by differentshades
Anyone know where to get a good deal on Soakaway crates?
If not I might go down the diy Concrete inspection chamber route, mentioned on the main site.
Are they suitable for a driveway? if so what do I cap it off with?, just a recessed manhole cover?

Thanks