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Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:32 pm
by gonchy
hi all just started digging out and and setting out my drive now the question ive got is about bedding my edging course im using a sigle block paver all around the outside sat on a 100mm deep 150mm wide flaunched concrete now does this need to sit on top of certain amount of type 1 or strait on the groung the ground in clay my other question is what i need to mix a c7.5 concrete is it shingle,sharp,cement or can i use ballast many thx james
Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:56 pm
by lutonlagerlout
ideally your edge course is laid on 150 deep of 6:1 ballast cement
very little water for the bedding but a bit more for the haunching
LLL
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:33 am
by local patios and driveway
If you have dug out 8 inches deep which you should then that'll give you room for a compacted 2inches of stone. Then your concrete bed then the paver
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:44 pm
by lutonlagerlout
I would always have the concrete on top of the sub grade not the sub base
any movement whatsoever in the subbase and your edgings have gone
LLL
Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:27 pm
by gonchy
thx for the advice much appriciated i did think it needed to be on subbase i was just trying to get all the edgings done and concreted before i dug the rest out but will just wait thx again oh and thx about the concrete mix
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:37 am
by local patios and driveway
But then are you compacting the sub grade? If you sheet up and compact the sub base you shouldnt get movement
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:28 am
by lutonlagerlout
from this very site
so that clears that up then :;):
LLL
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:39 am
by local patios and driveway
I wasnt arguing tony just discussing
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:39 am
by local patios and driveway
So i would do it using the left method is that wrong then?
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 4:58 pm
by lutonlagerlout
i reckon if you have enough concrete under the kerbs its fine
but the temptaion will always be there if the subbase is wacked and there is only 50mm under the kerbs to "leave it"
I know its slow but i always put kerbs, drains, and edgings, in before any subbase goes in
gives us a line to work to
IYKWIM
LLL 
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:46 pm
by gonchy
lutonlagerlout wrote:i reckon if you have enough concrete under the kerbs its fine
but the temptaion will always be there if the subbase is wacked and there is only 50mm under the kerbs to "leave it"
I know its slow but i always put kerbs, drains, and edgings, in before any subbase goes in
gives us a line to work to
IYKWIM
LLL
just read the last couple of replys and saw the diagram thats what made unsure of which way to do it
the reason why i wanted to do kerbs first was so i knew all my levels were good then finish digging as ive a 500mm wide trench to the right depth around the drive then get my 150mm of mot1 to the right levels same as diagram to the right
thx agian
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:32 pm
by ringi
lutonlagerlout wrote:I know its slow but i always put kerbs, drains, and edgings, in before any subbase goes in gives us a line to work to
How long do you give the concrete to set before you are happy to let a wacker near the edging?
Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:18 pm
by lutonlagerlout
18-24 hrs
obviously you dont want the wacker touching it at all if possible
cheers LLL
Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 12:31 pm
by Tony McC
It doesn't matter whether you use the method shown on the right or the left; the key thing is that there is sufficient concrete beneath and behind the edge restraining courses.
On some projects, it makes more sense to install kerbs/edge courses and then place the sub-base. On other jobs, the sub-base will be installed first and so a channel or shallow trench will need to be cut into the compacted stone to ensure the concrete bed is deep enough. It makes no real difference as long as the concrete is right.
