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Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 10:31 pm
by CHUFFER
I HAVE JUST LAID A PATH 13MX1M ON A 4:1 SAND CEMENT SEMI-DRY SCREED. I APPLIED P.V.A TO THE BASE OF EACH BLOCK AND GENTLY TAPPED EACH ONE DOWN TO CREATE A GOOD BOND. I NOW WANT TO PUT KILN DRIED SAND IN BETWEEN THE JOINTS BUT AM NOT TOO KEEN TO RUN THE WACKER PLATE OVER IT IN CASE IT LOOSENS THE BLOCKS. I KNOW LAYING THEM ON SEMI-DRY IS NOT THE NORMAL PRACTICE. ANYTHOUGHTS OR TIPS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 11:24 pm
by lutonlagerlout
if its on a screeded cement bed you cant wack it
you have to wack it as you go with some 4 by 2 and a lump hammer
LLL
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:09 am
by seanandruby
why would ypu do spmething that you ''know is not normal'', then ask for advice? P v a should'nt be used where it will be in contact with water anyway. Also turn off capital writing, bad manners.
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:13 am
by Pablo
your best bet would be to slurry sand it. Empty the same onto the paving then wet it up until it runs freely. Keep wetting it as you brush it into the joints and then use the water to clean it off.
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 1:22 pm
by CHUFFER
Thanks to Pablo and lll for replying with something usefull. I have absolutely no doubt that what i have done and the method used willl last the test of time. It is only for foot traffic as the main driveway is tarmac. There will be no fear of sinking as the sub base has been rollered and has been down for about 6 years. There will be no fear of sand washout as it has a strong cement mix under it,the same mix used by civil engineering contractors all over Britain for laying slabs. I was goig to brush in the kiln dried sand,while tapping the blocks with a rubber mallet and then let the foot traffic do the rest. I just wondered if anyone had a different idea.I did not expect to be accosted by block paving purists. I hope this post is polite enough for you Sean!!!!!!!!!
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 4:33 pm
by seanandruby
i merely asked a question chuffey. I just assumed you had read the index, i must be wrong. I also politely pointed out that you were shouting with caps' on. I also gave you sound advice about pva, should of been sbr for bond bridge. O well maybe it was good advice'along with pablo and lll?
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 5:18 pm
by local patios and driveway
pva isnt frost proof, so close to the ground makes it even worse, i would give those blocks 2 harsh winters at best. as for wacking it all down, i think the civils method you have used illiminates the need to compact it all.
also you have come to a forum full of purists, these guys here are the creme de la creme of the industry. (i try to tag along) you wont be babied here, but you'll get the correct answers and these people post to help, theres no other rewards...
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 5:26 pm
by ilovesettsonmondays
as you have laid them on a sand cement bed and i take it you havent laid them today . then its too late to put a plate on them .
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 5:47 pm
by CHUFFER
Thanks for all your replys. I wil let you know how i get on
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 5:57 pm
by lutonlagerlout
if blocks have to be laid on sand and cement then they need to be wacked the same day,
i can see why you did it chuffer, but your methodology is wrong for block paving
block paving on a proper base will last many years
laid on a cement bed its there till it fails
anyway no wacker day later
cheers LLL
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:11 pm
by haggistini
just brush the sand in.
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:36 pm
by CHUFFER
Thanks Haggistini, im sure the foot traffic will sort it out
Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:53 pm
by simeonronacrete
I agree with all the above.
For bonding primer which is resistant to frost, water, traffic, see Ronafix for bedding