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Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:59 pm
by Adam Ashworth
I have excavated my drive and am now in the process of sorting out my edge between my drive and a shared drive. In the shared drive there is a drain that comes into my drive by about 3 inches refer to pic)
The level of my drive will be lower than the shared drive (due to my damp corse on my house). The top will be just above the orange screw driver in picture below.
I am going to put a kerb flush with the shared drive so when my blocks are laid i wont see the side of concrete/soil.
The problem i have is i dont know what to do where the drain is- do i run the kerb around it? Or can i lower the drain so my kerb line will be straight?
It could look a bit odd having a bit of concrete coming in then out of my drive? My neighbour has told me years back the drain collapsed which i think is why that slab is there? I did start to cut the slab but if i do i will expose the drain...
Any 1 got any advise.... ??? cheers
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 5:37 pm
by lutonlagerlout
I would run a kerb around it
you dont want to start bashing other peoples ICs
BTW that concrete looks way too thin
LLL
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 5:59 pm
by Adam Ashworth
yes i thought the concrete looked very thin> not much i can do about that though!!! Shared owned.
So you dont think i will get away with removing the top layer of bricks??? cheers
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:06 pm
by Dave_L
Surely a little "investigation" of the bricks is in order, it *might* be possible to chip them away enough to get the blocks in.......
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:11 pm
by Adam Ashworth
i need to lower it. by the way it will not have a car going over it... only foot traffic
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:30 pm
by lutonlagerlout
lift the cover up adam
a deep sea says there is an interceptor down yonder drain
LLL 
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:34 pm
by local patios and driveway
for the sake of 4 inches why not move your kerb forward a little and concrete the gap?
Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 6:56 pm
by henpecked
local patios and driveways wrote:for the sake of 4 inches why not move your kerb forward a little and concrete the gap?
Good point, looks like pathway is skew any ways, might straighten it up a little :;):
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 7:57 am
by seanandruby
You need to investigate the thickness of the brickwork. I'd take the first brick out and see if it is indeed 9 inch brickwork, it should be. If it is you are in luck that they are laid in stretcher courses as removal will be easier. The new edge course laid on concrete will be doing the same job as the existing brickwork. Notwithstanding then you will have to think about some sort of shuttering on the inside face of the manhole. Solutions not problems is the mantra of the site ???
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:10 am
by Adam Ashworth
I have measured from the inside of the drain to get a marking point. it is only 1 brick thick... will i still get away with removing 1 corse of bricks??
Someone told me i could take the first corse off then put a sheet of acrylite over- then put my kerb on top.??? any suggestions?
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:21 am
by local patios and driveway
as in acrylic? is that like plastic glass?
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 9:58 am
by haggistini
I would think that if you cut the existing lintel all the way through remove the 2 courses of bricks and bed a new 6x4" lintel then bed your bullnose kerb 150 mm on that flush with the concrete path and pour concrete arround it all . The ground looks very organic so a bit more excavating around the IC may put our minds at rest a good strong mix of 4 chippings 2 sand 1 cement all the way down your edgings would add some strength to the sketchy thin path.
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 11:41 am
by Adam Ashworth
Sorry, why do you suggest removing 2 courses? surely i am better just removing the slab and 1 course? then placing a new slab over the bricks then cut my kerb and conctere it on that? what do you think?
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 3:35 pm
by haggistini
It's hard to see the exact level of the screwdriver so I would recommend a reinforced lintel if you can achieve this by removing one course and cutting your kerb that would do it.
Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 10:47 pm
by seanandruby
Ok then maybe you will get away with a rip of cordek, just slice about 4 inches half way through so you have a hinged effect then lay the 4 inch bit on bricks and the other longer part up against the hole,fix in place with plugs and screws and lay kerb on top and against it, or go up your local tip, scrap yard and ask for a length of angle iron. what would the difference be between your finished drive and dpc ?